EATING & DRINKING IN EUROPE/EUROPE MADE EASY www.eatndrink.com

Shakespeare and Company bookstore

2011-12-20T08:31:00.000-06:00

This famous bookstore is named after the publishing house that first released James Joyce’s Ulysses. Hemingway and Fitzgerald were patrons. It’s a favorite hangout for expatriates from English-speaking countries. George Whitman, who died this week, ran the Paris bookstore for decades. His daughter will continue to operate the store. It's just across the river from Notre-Dame, so next time you're in Paris, stop in and soak up some history.

Info: 5th/Métro St-Michel. 37 rue de la Bûcherie. Tel. 01/43.25.40.93. Open daily noon to midnight.

Paris shop windows!

2011-12-18T21:13:00.000-06:00

Paris has some great displays in shop windows. Here's a shop selling mannequins and another selling interesting purses!

Paris Wine Tastings (in English)

2011-12-18T20:59:00.000-06:00

What would a trip to Paris be without wine? Try one of these wine tastings (in English). A great experience!

Monday through Saturday at Ô Chateau: You can try either the Paris Pass Tasting (30€) or the Grand Crus Tasting (120€). 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in the 1st arrondissement.

Every Thursday at Spring Boutique: wine tasting (six wines with cheese and charcuterie) for 60€. 4pm to 5:30pm at 52 rue de l’Arbre Sec in the 1st arrondissement.

The Passages of Paris

2011-12-07T07:01:00.000-06:00

In the 1800s, there were 137 glass-roofed shopping arcades (passages) in Paris. Only 24 remain. The oldest, dating back to 1800, is Passage des Panoramas, 11 blvd. Montmartre (known for its stamps). Nearby are Passage Verdeau, 4-6 rue de la Grange Batelière, and Passage Jouffroy, 12 blvd. Montmartre. Info: 2^nd/Métro Grands Boulevards

Passages are luminous and practical. The glass roofs not only admit light, but shelter shoppers from rain.

My favorite passage is in the Passage du Grand Cerf in the 2nd near rue Montorgueil (pictured here). For more information, check out http://www.passagedugrandcerf.com

Paris Restaurants: Fall 2011 (La Grille)

2011-12-04T16:28:00.000-06:00

Here's the first installment of our annual fall Paris restaurant update. If you look closely, you'll see an Eating & Drinking in Paris sticker in the window of a Paris restaurant in the photo below.

It's interesting to go off the beaten path to look for a new dining experience. The name of La Grille comes from the 200-year-old wrought-iron grills in front of the restaurant. For years, this small and intimate restaurant (in the 10th arrondissement) was run by M. and Mme. Cullérre. Under their ownership, the restaurant became known for the turbot prepared with an emulsified white-butter sauce. The new owners have kept this delicious dish and you'll find an excellent boeuf bourguignon à la ancienne (braised beef in a red-wine sauce) on the menu (pictured above). For starters, try the frisé aux lardons (curly endive salad with diced bacons). Main courses will run you from 17 to 66 euro (the turbot prepared for two). Under the former owners, you were surrounded by a rather eccentric collection of lace and dolls. The dolls are gone, and the staff will assist you in ordering even if you don't speak French. Definitely worth the trip. Special thanks to our Parisian friend Patrick for taking us to this hidden gem.

La Grille
10th arrondissement
80 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière.
Tel. 01/47.70.89.73
Métro Poissonnière
Closed Sun.

Paris: A Day of Free Museums and Sights

2011-10-26T08:24:00.000-05:00

Two of the best free museums in Paris are located near each other. You can easily visit both of them in a day. Note that all the museums on this day plan are closed on Monday.

Many of the museums in Paris are free (and crowded) the first Sunday of the month, including the Louvre and the Picasso Museum.

Take the métro to the St-Paul stop. This stop is where rue de Rivoli ends and rue St-Antoine begins. All along these streets are typical cafés where you can have coffee or breakfast before you begin visiting the museums. If you’re looking to save money, standing at the counter in a café (or bar) is cheaper than sitting down.

Now let’s head to our first free museum: The Musée Carnavalet-Histoire de Paris (pictured above). In the 1700s, the Hôtel Carnavalet was presided over by Madame de Sévigné who chronicled French society in hundreds of letters written to her daughter. I went kicking and screaming into this museum as it sounded so very boring. I was wrong. You’ll find antiques, portraits, and artifacts dating back to the late 1700s. The section on the French Revolution with its guillotines is especially interesting, as is the royal bedroom. There are exhibits across the courtyard at the Hôtel le Peletier de St-Fargeau. Truly an interesting museum of the history of Paris. Info: 3rd/Métro St-Paul. 23 rue de Sévigné. Tel. 01/44.59.58.58. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Permanent collection is free. €7 for exhibits. http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/.

Just a street away is another free museum. The Musée Cognacq-Jay, located in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant mansion, houses the 18th-century art and furniture owned by Ernest Cognacq, the founder of La Samaritaine department store. Cognacq once bragged that he was not a lover of art and that he had never visited the Louvre. Perhaps it was his wife, Louise Jay, who had the sense to compile such an amazing art collection, including works by Rembrandt, Fragonard and Boucher. Info: 3rd/Métro St-Paul. 8 rue Elzévir. Tel. 01/40.27.07.21. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Free.

If you’re up to another free museum, head to métro Monceau.

On the edge of beautiful Parc Monceau (photo above) is the Musée Cernuschi. Cernuschi was a banker from Milan who bequeathed his lovely home and incredible collection of Asian art to the city. A must for Asian-art aficionados. There’s also a collection of Persian bronze objects. Explanatory map and notes are in English. Info: 8th/Métro Monceau. 7 avenue Vélasquez. Tel. 01/53.96.21.50. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Free. http://www.cernuschi.paris.fr/.

End your day by heading to the Seine River. Walk along the river, taking in the elegantly lit Notre-Dame and the stunning beauty of this amazing city. And, the view is free!

For more information, maps and photos in Open Road's Best of Paris by Andy Herbach available at http://www.eatndrink.com/.

France's new food festival.

2011-09-09T08:03:00.001-05:00

France'e new Fête de la Gastronomie is a new one-day celebration of food. More than 47,000 restaurants have joined the celebration. Events include free soup at greenmarkets throughout the country, a culinary treasure hunt in Paris, and an outdoor banquet in Avignon.

Check out the website (in English) at www.fete-gastronomie.fr/en/ for a list of events.

Paris Cooking School

2011-07-20T18:10:00.000-05:00

I'm frequently asked for a recommendation for Paris cooking classes. Here's my favorite:

Former New York chef & caterer Richard Nahem, and chef and caterer Charlotte Puckette, conduct the Eye Prefer Paris cooking classes. Classes start at 9am by shopping at a fresh food market. Then, you head to Charlotte’s private townhouse located in the 7^th arrondissement, near the Eiffel Tower. After students arrive, they discuss the menu with Charlotte over coffee and then prepare a five-course feast for the next few hours. The meal is then shared, accompanied by French wine from a local wine shop. Classes end at approximately 2pm. Info: €185. Tue, Wed, Thu, and Fri. Minimum of 2 students, maximum of 6. www.eyepreferparistours.com/cooking-class

Favorite restaurants in Italy's Cinque Terre.

2011-06-06T14:34:00.000-05:00

The Cinque Terre are five beautiful towns, which until recently were accessible only by train or a series of hiking paths. Perched on dramatic cliffs above the sea, you will experience car-free serenity and an Italy of old. Here are some of my favorite restaurants in the Cinque Terre. For more on dining in Italy (including the most comprehensive Italian menu translator available), check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide http://www.eatndrink.com/

De Mananan
117 Via Fieschi, Corniglia
Tel. 0187/821166
Closed Tue.
Hearty fare served in the cellar of a home in the smallest Cinque Terre town. Many dishes feature pesto. Try the pansoti (triangular-shaped filled pasta).
Moderate - Expensive

Marina Piccola
120 Via Birolli, Manarola
Tel. 0187/920103
Closed Tue.
Dine on delicious cozze (mussels) or zuppe di pesce (fish stew) at this waterside restaurant.
Moderate

Miky
104 Via Fegina, Monterosso al Mare
Tel. 0187/817608
Closed Tue. from Sep. to July, and all of Nov. and Dec.
http://www.ristorantemiky.it/
Ligurian seafood, baked in a wood-burning stove, served in this charming Cinque Terre town. Enjoy delicious antipasti while you take in the sea view.
Moderate – Expensive

La Laterna
46 Via San Giacomo, Riomaggiore
Tel. 0187/920589
Closed Nov. to Jan.
Dine on fresh fish and innovative Ligurian cuisine at this trattoria above the harbor. Have a glass of limoncino.
Moderate - Expensive

Gambero Rosso
7 Piazza Marconi, Vernazza
Tel. 0187/812265
Closed Mon., Jan. and Feb.
Ligurian specialties at this harborside restaurant (it’s been open for over 100 years). The creamy pesto is fantastic.
Moderate – Expensive

The largest wine bar in Paris.

2011-04-14T08:01:00.000-05:00

Ô Chateau is known for its fun and interesting wine tastings. It has now opened the largest wine bar in Paris. Located near the Louvre (see details below), Ô Chateau's new digs have over 3000 square feet of space with three tasting rooms and a wine bar (said to be the largest in Paris). The wine bar is open Mon. to Sat. 3pm to midnight (until 2am on Fri. and Sat.). Highly recommended.

Info: 1st/Métro Louvre-Rivoli (line 1) or Etienne Marcel (line 4). 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (a six minute walk from the Louvre and a two minute walk from rue Montorgueuil). Tel: 33 (0)1 44 73 97 80. www.o-chateau.com

Lunch in Pisa, Italy

2011-02-04T19:27:00.000-06:00

Torre Pendente

The bar

No matter how many times I see the Leaning Tower (Torre Pendente), I am never disappointed. After taking in the Tower and nearby sights, take a short walk to the beautiful Piazza dei Cavalieri. On a street just off of the Piazza is a real find for lunch. La Sosta dei Cavalieri is an intimate and friendly restaurant. Try the delicious tagliolini al sugo di piccione (thin noodles with a pigeon sauce) or the cannelloni alla erbe di campo e pinoli (cannelloni with wild herbs and pine nuts). There's a decent selection of wines from the region. The house chianti is a good choice.

The restaurant

tagliolini al sugo di piccione

Also near the Leaning Tower is another choice for lunch: Da Bruno. For details on Da Bruno, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide.

Cannelloni

Chianti!

Fall/Winter 2010 Paris Restaurant Update

2010-12-04T09:39:00.000-06:00

The new edition of Eating & Drinking in Paris (the 5th edition, but really it's the 6th as the first edition was called Eating & Drinking in France), will be released before the summer tourist season. As you can imagine, there's lots of "research" required for the new edition.

A few long-time favorites are gone since the last edition. La Maison and Au Gamin de Paris have closed their doors. Both of these restaurants have been in the guide since early editions. Au Gamin de Paris is now a clothing store, a sign of the times in the increasingly expensive Marais. Also gone from the new edition will be Procope. It's always been way too touristy, but the food has really declined. Spicy is also out. It's now called Villa Spicy, but the name change can't save it from being what it now has turned into- a tourist trap. Vin Sur Vin (in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower) may still have a fantastic wine list and decent food, but its prices simply aren't worth it. You can find other similar dining experiences in Paris for a lot less.

New to the next edition are the wonderful La Veraison in the 15th (see my Fall/Winter 2009 blog), Petit Prince (which continues to be a joy and pleasant dining experience), and Chez Janou (always very much fun). Here are a few other new entries or places worth trying:

Spring
Who would have thought that a Chicago-born chef would be creating the biggest buzz in Paris dining? Daniel Rose has moved from his tiny restaurant into a modern, sleek space near the Louvre. Reserve well in advance to dine here and if you're fortunate enough to get a seat at the counter overlooking the open kichen, you'll have the dining experience of a lifetime. The menu changes daily and you'll be served what everyone else is having. A delicious experience that you won't soon forget. A typical menu du jour includes an amuse-bouche, a starter, a main course, cheese course, and desserts. Interesting wine list. At the end of the street is the companion food and wine store featuring French specialties and wine tastings.

www.springparis.fr
1st/Metro Louvre-Rivoli
6 rue Bailleul
Tel. 01/45.96.05.72
Open dinner Tue.-Sat. Lunch Wed-Fri.
Reservations required.
Boutique:
52 rue de l'Arbre Sec
Tel. 01/58.62.44.30
Open Tue.-Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm - 9pm, Sat 11am-8pm.

The details:
Bottle of Catherine & Pierre Bretton 2007 Chinon Saint Louans (42 euros)
Greens in a mild horseradish sauce topped with caviar.
Normandy scallop on top of a smoked chestnut puree (crème de marrons) sprinkled with fried chestnut chips.
Sauteed brussel sprouts, root vegetables, foie gras d'oie (fattened goose liver), grilled halibut, topped with fried chard (blette), quenched with consommé.
A cutting of cheeses at your table (roquefort, chèvre, cantal, camembert).
Fresh pear dessert.
A glass of Vin d'Alsace, Herrenweg de Turchheim Degewurtraminer (10 euros a glass)
A dollup of thick crème au chocolat drizzled with caramel and crème anglaise.
Lunch (without drinks) was 38 euros per person.

Le Taxi Jaune
You'll find the intimate "Yellow Taxi" on a backstreet in the Marais. The menu changes regularly and although it often includes offal and horse (cheval), there are plenty of other choices. Service is friendly, unobtrusive, and unhurried. Try the pumpkin and vegetable soup when available. If you're looking for a relaxing dining experience in the Marais, you've found the place.

3rd/Métro Arts-et-Méiters
13 rue Chapon
Tel. 01/42.76.00.40
Closed Sat. & Sun.

Frascati
Sometimes you're walking around Paris and just want to pop into a place for dinner. We stumbled on the tiny, warm (it was very cold outside as Europe was experiencing quite a cold spell), and comfortable Frascati. Specializing in Italian cuisine, we selected an inexpensive bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and dined on escalope de veau (veal scallop) and ravioli in a gorgonzola sauce.

4th/Métro Rambeuteau
47 rue du Temple
Tel. 01/42.71.06.11
Closed Sun. and Mon.

Monet showcased in Paris.

2010-09-27T15:26:00.000-05:00

The Grand Palais (near the Champs-Elysées) in Paris is hosting an exhibition of Monet's works. The exhibition runs until January 24th. You'll see 200 works contributed by museums from around the world . What you won't see is the work that game Impressionism its name, the “Impression, Soleil Levant” ("Impression, Sunrise"). This famous painting remains at the Musee Marmottan in Paris (which is definitely worth the trip).

Summer in Paris: Paris-Plage

2010-07-16T06:11:00.000-05:00

Sunbathe, drink and celebrate the Seine River at Paris-Plage. Hundreds of deck chairs, umbrellas, cabanas and even palm trees are all brought to the Right Bank of the river from Pont de Sully to Pont Neuf. You can enjoy the sun, have a drink or two and a snack. No, I don’t recommend that you swim in the Seine. In the evening, musicians play along the river.

A day in Bologna, the gastronomic capital of Italy.

2010-05-07T06:15:00.000-05:00

Bologna is the gastronomic capital of Italy. Often overlooked, this university town is a must for food lovers. Bologna is easily reached from Milan by high-speed train (only 52 minutes). You're dropped off at the train station and make your way to the heart of the town (Piazza Maggiore, home of the Neptune Fountain). On our day in Bologna, we made four favorite "foodie" stops. The train station and Piazza Maggiore are connected by the Via Indipendenza.

Just off of Via Indipendenza at Via Marsala is Enoteca Italiana. This wine and food shop is packed with wines from throughout Italy and Italian food specialties. A great place to stock up on gifts to take home, for a picnic, or some great snacks to eat in your hotel.

Here are three great places to dine near Piazza Maggiore:

Our absolute favorite is Drogheria della Rosa at 10 Via Cartoleria (Tel. 051/222529, http://www.drogheriadellarosa.it/, closed Sun.). This friendly trattoria has an extensive wine cellar and is located in a former pharmacy. We had our best Italian lunch ever. Two highly recommended dishes are the lasagne bolognese (pictured here - too bad Karl ate most of it before I could snap a photo!) and the tortelli in a butter and sage sauce with zucchini flowers. Fantastic!

Next door at 12 Via Cartoleria (Tel. 051/226315, http://www.godotwine.it/, closed Sun) is Godot Wine Bar. This modern and stylish wine bar serves pasta dishes and and snacks. It also has a large wine list. Both Drogheria and Godot have outdoor seating in front of the restaurants.

For more elegant dining, try Da Cesari at 8 Via de' Carbonesi (south of Piazza Maggiore). This romantic restaurant serves delicious Bolognese dishes and homemade wine. Tel. 051/237710, closed Sun. and Sat. in July. http://www.da-cesari.it/.

Note that all of these establishments are closed for part of August. You won't regret a trip to this lovely town. For more on dining in Italy, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide.

The best baguette in Paris.

2010-04-15T19:05:00.000-05:00

A Senegal-born baker at Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses in the Montmartre (38 Rue des Abbesses) has won a contest for the best baguette. Djibril Bodian, the son of a baker, moved to France when he was six. Baguettes are an important and delicious part of every day life in Paris. More than 160 baguettes were judged in The Grand Prix de la Baguette. Makes me want to go to Paris and bite into a crispy baguette!

A Madrid Tapas Walk

2010-03-25T11:47:00.000-05:00

Our tapas walk begins at the Plaza Santa Ana. This pleasant square is located in one of Madrid’s oldest neighborhoods. This is where many Madrileños congregate on weekend evenings. In addition to the Teatro Español, the square is also home to the stately Hotel Reina Victoria, which has been recently renovated.

On the south side of the square are three places you can visit.

At number 6 is Cervecería Alemana, the best of the many tapas bars on the square, which was built in 1904 and modeled after a German beer hall (Alemana means “German” in Spanish). Have a beer. It’ll be served in a white stein. Ernest Hemingway drank here, but that’s really no big deal since he drank all over Madrid. Why don’t you order aceitunas (olives), a popular snack? You’ll be eating more later.

Another beer hall here is Cervecería Santa Ana at number 10. Here you can have a plate of jamón y queso (cured ham and cheese).

Another tapas spot here is La Moderna at number 12. Try a glass of delicious Spanish wine and a cheese plate, for which this place is known.

From the south side of the square, head across the square to the north side and turn right onto Calle de Manuel Fernández y González.

At number 7 is the popular bar Viva Madrid. It has fantastic tiled walls and an incredible carved ceiling. You come here to drink and, if you do stop, it’s likely that the crowd will be young and lively.

Keep moving, eating and drinking! With Viva Madrid to your back, head left down Calle de Manuel Fernández y González. You’ll pass Calle de Echegaray. The next street is Calle Ventura de la Vega. On the corner at 10-17 Calle de Manuel Fernández y González is our final stop.

At the tile bar Taberna Toscana, you’ll sit on stools and taste a wide selection of tapas under sausages hanging from the ceiling. Try the fantastic ternera (veal) dish swimming in a delicious sauce (with french fries). A specialty here (if you’re up to it) is morcilla (blood sausage). Try it. It’s an interesting choice. When in Spain…

For a map and more about tapas in Madrid, check out Open Road's Best of Spain by Andy Herbach.

Famous gourmet food store: Milan's "Peck"

2010-03-20T08:57:00.000-05:00

Peck (www.peck.it) is Milan's famous gourmet food store. There's a huge wine cellar and the food store offers pasta and sauces, ham and cheeses, truffles and mushrooms, pasta and sauces, and oil and vinegar. You can sample these Italian specialties at the (usually crowded) stand-up bar. For more information on dining in Milan, check out "Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide."

Around the corner at 4 Via Victor Hugo is the renowned Cracco-Peck restaurant featuring a superb tasting menu. The prices at the restaurant may shock you, so you might want to try the less expensive wine bar nearby at 3 Via Cesare Cantu).

Best of Provence: Lourmarin

2010-03-11T15:59:00.001-06:00

Lourmarin’s winding narrow streets are lined with stone houses painted in shades of ochre and beige. It has a Renaissance chapel and both Catholic and Protestant churches. The village lies at the foot of the Luberon Mountain range which is covered with pine and oak trees. Surrounding the village are olive groves and vineyards. Although French vacationers discovered this little village years ago, it’s now popular with foreign tourists. Its renovated château is the site of frequent concerts and exhibits. Visitors have quite a few cafés and restaurants to choose from, and it’s become the gastronomic capital of the area. It’s a lovely town with much to offer, and a great base for touring some of the prettiest towns of Provence. For more on Lourmarin, check out Open Road's Best of Provence and the French Riviera by Andy Herbach

Spring is here, at least in Amsterdam.

2010-03-04T06:51:00.000-06:00

Amsterdam Tulip Days debuts on April 24. It's an effort to turn the entire city into a tulip garden. Bulbs have been planted in the gardens of museums, outside downtown buildings and at private homes. Many of these gardens are usually not accessible to the public. The project is a joint effort on the part of the Museum Van Loon, the International Flower Bulb Centre, the Tulip Museum, the city, and the Amsterdam Tourist and Convention Board. And, we'll be there to take it all in!

The Top Sights of Amsterdam

2010-03-03T12:57:00.000-06:00

Here are our top sights of Amsterdam. What are yours?

Canals: From the Singel to the Prinsengracht, Amsterdam’s canals and the Golden Age homes that line them make Amsterdam a unique destination.

Begijnhof: The courtyard of this 14th-century hofje (almshouse) is a peaceful getaway from the bustling city.

Anne Frankhuis: Anne Frank’s hiding place, where she penned her famous diary, comes to life in this poignant museum.

Rijksmuseum: The Royal Museum is one of the world’s greatest art museums with masterpieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and countless others.

van Gogh Museum: A study of not only van Gogh’s art, but also his fascinating life.

Amsterdams Historisch Museum: Follow the history of Amsterdam from fishing village to modern metropolis.

Red-Light District: The oldest profession in the world sells itself (legally) in a new type of window-shopping.

Museum Amstelkring: Gorgeous clandestine church in, of all places, an attic.

Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art: One of the world’s most prestigious modern-art museums.

Coffeeshops: What’s that smell? It certainly isn’t coffee. Because of Amsterdam’s tolerant attitude to certain drugs, you’ll find them “served” in the city’s numerous coffeeshops.

Are 387 steps worth it?

2010-02-27T17:50:00.002-06:00

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame in Paris is one of the greatest achievements of Gothic architecture. It’s so huge that it can accommodate over 6,000 visitors. The interior is dominated by three beautiful (and immense) rose windows, and has a 7,800-pipe organ. Inside along the walls are individual chapels dedicated to saints.The most famous chapel is that of Joan of Arc in the right transept. The treasury houses relics, manuscripts and religious garments.

You may want to climb the 387 steps of the north tower for a grand view of Paris. You’ll also have a great view of the cathedral’s famous gargoyles. Info: 4^th/Métro Cité. 6 place du Parvis Notre-Dame. Tel. 01/42.34.56.10. Open daily 8am-6:45pm. Tower open daily Apr-June and Sep 9:30am-7:30pm, Jul and Aug 9am-7:30pm, Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm. Admission: Free to the cathedral. Towers: €6, under 18 free. Treasury: €6.

The Shroud of Turin to be placed on display.

2010-02-20T07:28:00.000-06:00

The Shroud of Turin is believed by some to be the burial cloth of Jesus Christ. Traditionally the Shroud is placed on display every 25 years at the cathedral in Turin, Italy. To help Turin's struggling economy, it will be placed on display from April 10 to May 23. Over one million people have already made reservations to see the shroud.

Reservations can be made at:

http://www.sindone.org/the_holy_shroud__english_/00024122_The_Holy_Shroud.html

For information on dining in Turin and the rest of Italy, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide.

Now you can visit the Eiffel Tower without the lines.

2010-02-19T18:56:00.000-06:00

Want to visit the Eiffel Tower and not wait in line? The Eiffel Tower now takes online ticket reservations at
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/teiffel/uk/pratique/acces/page/tarifs.html?id=2_3

Or you can visit the Eiffel Tower after dinner (instead of during the day). The lines will be short, the view memorable, and the light show on the hour is spectacular. There’s no better way to end your day! Info: 7th/Métro Trocadéro, École Militaire or Bir-Hakeim. Champ de Mars. Tel. 01/44.11.23.23. Open daily.

Paris Catacombs Reopen

2010-02-19T18:46:00.000-06:00

Paris' underground bone collection, the catacombs, had been closed to the public after being vandalized. It has now reopened.

The creepy collection of human remains — cleared from city cemeteries long ago — is orderly, with bones piled in stacks along underground tunnels. Vandalism last year changed all this with bones and skulls scattered along the walking paths.

The catacombs are a vast underground network tunnel of tunnels holding the bones of more than 6 million Parisians. Near the end of the 18th century, Paris' cemeteries were filled to capacity, so city officials decided to transfer the contents of graves to quarries.

The section open to the public is only a sampling of the secret world: More than 300 kilometers (186 miles) of tunnels like beneath the city. The catacombs are visited by 257,000 tourists each year, according to city historical officials.

For more on the catacombs and travel to Paris, check out Open Road's Best of Paris.

Recreational Drugs and Tourism: Amsterdam's Coffeeshops

2010-01-12T20:48:00.000-06:00

Recreational drugs are a big part of Amsterdam’s appeal to some tourists. Coffeeshops are not cafés. You drink coffee, smoke cigarettes and have a snack at a café. You buy and smoke marijuana at a coffeeshop. How can you tell the difference? Other than the telltale smell, most coffeeshops display a Rastafarian flag (red, yellow and green). Sanctioned shops display a sticker that says “Coffeeshop BCD.” Marijuana is sold openly in Amsterdam (although it and all hard drugs remain illegal). About 250 cafés are licensed to sell a maximum of 5 grams per adult. Coffeeshops feature lists of types of marijuana, hashish and stickie (a hashish joint rolled with tobacco) from which to choose. It’s taxed and regulated. Some shops even have delivery service! They sell cakes, muffins, brownies and chocolates made with hash or marijuana with names like “space cakes” or “space sweets.” Don’t smoke pot on the street as it’s considered rude. Never buy drugs from street dealers, and if you choose to partake in the drugs available at these shops, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. There are many locations of Bulldog, said to be the oldest coffeeshop in the city (www.bulldog.nl).

Top Ten Rules of Dining in Paris (#6-#10)

2010-01-12T20:07:00.000-06:00

6. Parisians dine leisurely. Don’t expect to get the same speed of service as at home. For the French, dinner is nearly a ritual. In its full-blown form, it begins with an apéritif. This is often accompanied by an amuse-gueule, a little snack of some sort. After this, you order an hors-d’oeuvre. Then comes an entrée, which is a first course – pâté or a composed salad, such as a salad with shrimp or hard-boiled eggs – and then the main course which will most likely be meat or fish. The main course is sometimes accompanied by or followed by a salad, but it is a simple green salad. After this, just when you think you’re going to explode and have secretly unbuckled your belt, the serveur arrives with selections from the cheese platter that are followed by dessert, and, finally, coffee. But if you do not want to follow the French protocol, don’t. Even if the waiter seems to disapprove, do what you like.

7. Don’t talk loudly. You will notice that the French speak softly, Americans don’t; we just can’t help it. But believe us: Those loud voices coupled with running shoes, backpacks, “fanny packs,” large, conspicuous guide books and cameras are like wearing a neon sign announcing that you are a tourist, an American tourist.

8. Stand your ground without being aggressive. In the years we’ve been traveling, it seems that waiters have become more relaxed about the rituals of eating, and will accommodate you if you insist on what you want – within reason, of course.

9. Visit a street vendor at least once in Paris. Whether it’s sandwiches, hot dogs or crêpes, Parisian street vendors sell delicious “food on the run.” Do yourself a favor, and sample some.

10. Always be courteous. Remember that you are a guest in their country. There are simple things that the French do that we don’t, like excusing yourself or saying please all the time.

S’il vous plaît (seel voo play) after nearly everything is a safe way to be very polite. Seriously. A polite Parisian ALWAYS finishes a greeting (such as bonjour – hello) or affirmation (such as oui – yes) with a title. Thus, bonjour is always bonjour, madame or m’sieur and yes or no is always oui, m’sieur or madame. And just so you know, you say bonjour, which is essentially hello, all day and night.

Bonsoir – good evening – is reserved for leaving and after 7:00 p.m., and bonne nuit – good night – is only used when you are actually on your way to bed.

Top 10 Rules of Dining in Paris (#1-#5)

2010-01-12T20:05:00.000-06:00

1. Avoid eating in a restaurant that has a menu written in English. In case you haven’t gathered, we’re against them for a number of reasons. One good reason is that at one restaurant, we were automatically given the English menu (which is really irritating, since we hate being so obviously American) and we discovered as we walked out that it bore no relationship to the French menu which was more than twice as long.

2. Don’t be afraid. They can’t and won’t hurt you. They are not laughing at you, they don’t dislike you, they aren’t even thinking about you. Waiters in France are trained professionals whose job is to serve you. Despite what you’ve heard, they want you to have a good time. Sometimes they are just mystified by what we do.

3. Don’t ever call the waiter “garçon.” Though sometimes in bars a Parisian will use this word, travelers should never use it.

4. Try to make reservations. This isn’t as difficult as it seems; the words are similar in both languages and they’ll get the gist of what you’re trying to do. We often do a walk-by in the afternoon and stop in to make the reservation. When we go back that night they are almost always happy to see us again.

5. Return to a restaurant if you like it. If you have the luxury of time and can withstand the temptation to try other restaurants, you will always be treated better if they recognize you. Few travelers return to the same restaurant.

The best chocolates in Paris?

2009-12-14T09:21:00.000-06:00

Patrick Roger's friendly shop on the boulevard St-Germain-des-Prés has excellent chocolates packaged in green boxes that make great gifts and are easy to pack to take home. A sachet of 4 or 5 chocolate confections costs under 5€ (about $7.50). Are they the best chocolates in Paris? You decide!

Patrick Roger
6th/Métro Odéon
108 boulevard St-Germain-des-Prés
Tel. 01/43.29.38.42
Closed Sun and Mon
www.patrickroger.com

Paris Restaurant Update: Fall and Winter 2009

2009-12-06T16:53:00.000-06:00

I wasn't sure what to expect on our recent visit to Chez Janou. It's been described as "trendy" and since it was featured in Samantha Brown's Passport to Europe television show, I was afraid that it would be loaded with tourists. Well, there were only a few tourists in the bistro and I certainly wouldn't call it "trendy." This old fashioned bistro is located a few blocks from the beautiful place des Vosges in the Marais. It seems like everyone is having a great time in this vibrant, compact eatery. The food is Provencal and straightforward French (very good entrecôte). The wine list offered decent priced wines with a heavy emphasis on those from Provence. The highlight of the dinner was dessert (pictured above). A bowl of chocolate mousse is brought to the table and dished out. Delicious! The bistro is known for its large selection of pastis (anise-flavored aperitif). Very friendly service.

Chez Janou
3rd/Métro Chemin Vert
2 rue Roger Verlomme
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Tel. 01/42.72.28.41
www.chezjanou.com

Le Reminet (pictured above) has been in Eating & Drinking in Paris for the last several editions. This quaint bistro is located in the Latin Quarter near St-Michel and just across the river from Notre-Dame. We were a party of six, which in such a small place can always be a challenge. The staff was helpful and pleasant and the romantic atmosphere (down to candelabras on the tables) made for a wonderful evening. We all started with a kir royal (an aperitif made with champagne and creme de cassis). Most of us had a green salad (it wasn't on the menu, but most restaurant are happy to make one up). Good wine list featuring wines from all French regions. The food was excellent. Some of the choices were:
picatta de veau (veal picatta)
joue de cochon (pork cheeks)
pot-au-feu (a stew of meat and vegetables).

Le Reminet
5th/Métro St-Michel
3 rue Grands Degrés
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Tel. 01/44.07.04.24

As reported last winter, La Maison in the 5th (just around the corner from Le Reminet) has been purchased by new owners. Claude, the fun and interesting former owner, and his French bulldog "Polo" have retired. Sadly, most of the charm of the former La Maison is gone and we can't recommend its replacement.

Aux Trois Petits Cochons is a lively, friendly and gay (in every sense of the word) bistro in the Montorgueil quarter. If available, make sure you try the excellent blanquette de veau (veal stew). I started my meal with the delicious pumpkin soup (highly recommended). Always a good time and always a great meal. For photos about this restaurant, see the blog entry just before this one.

Aux Trois Petits Cochons
2nd/Metro Etienne Marcel
31 rue Tiquetonne
Tel. 01/42.33.39.69
Open daily. No lunch
http://www.auxtroispetitscochons.fr/

Cafe Beaubourg overlooks the Pompidou Center (housing a modern art collection). It's getting just a little run down, but it's always fun and there's great people watching. It wasn't as crowded this November because there was a temporary strike which closed the Pompidou Center, so there were fewer people around the area. Still, a great place for a snack and drink.

Paris Museum Strike Spreads

2009-12-05T08:18:00.000-06:00

It started at the Pompidou Center (the modern art museum pictured above) and has now spread to the Louvre, Versailles, the Arc de Triomphe, the Rodin Museum and Musée d'Orsay. Museum works are protesting government plans to cut the number of museum employees.

While in Paris this week, an announcement in English said "The Pompidou Center is closed today because of a strike. Thanks for listening."

A great way to end your day in Paris: Cafe Marly

2009-11-12T06:46:00.000-06:00

After dinner, head to Café Marly at 93 rue de Rivoli (1^st/Métro Palais Royal-Musée d’Orsay). You’ll pay for the view overlooking the glass-pyramid entrance to the Louvre, but it’s a great place to end your first day in Paris with a glass of champagne. How French! Info: 93 rue de Rivoli. Tel. 01/49.26.06.60. Open daily 8am to 2am.

Unique Dining in Paris: We'll Have A Gay Old Time

2009-10-29T08:58:00.000-05:00

Aux Trois Petits Cochons ("The Three Little Pigs") is a lively, friendly and gay (in every sense of the word) bistro in the Montorgueil quarter. Excellent blanquette de veau (veal stew). Info: 2nd/Métro Etienne Marcel. 31 rue Tiquetonne. Tel. 01/42.33.39.69. www.auxtroispetitscochons.fr. Open daily. No lunch. Moderate.

Impressionist Art in Paris: The Marmottan Museum

2009-10-28T08:39:00.000-05:00

Want to see Impressionist art in Paris? If you have the chance, head to a jewel of a museum. It’s a little out of the way, but worth the trip. The Musée Marmottan-Claude Monet is named after Paul Marmottan, who donated his beautiful home to house his collection of historic furnishings. In 1966, when Monet’s son died in an automobile accident, the museum received over 130 works by the artist, including Impression-Sunrise, from which the Impressionist movement is said to have gotten its name. In addition to the well-known water lilies and paintings of his house in Giverny, you’ll also see Renoir’s portrait of Monet. Info: 16th/Métro La Muette. 2 rue Louis-Boilly. Tel. 01/44.96.50.33. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: €8, under 8 free. From the métro stop, walk west on Chaussée de la Muette which turns into avenue du Ranelagh. Turn right onto avenue Raphaël. The museum is on the corner of avenue Raphaël and rue Louis-Boilly. The walk from the métro stop to the museum is a half mile. www.marmottan.com.

Tourism and Sex in Amsterdam

2009-10-06T10:23:00.000-05:00

A new spin on window-shopping! Prostitution has been regulated and, of course, taxed in Amsterdam since 1984, and even has its own union. Along the narrow streets of the Red-Light District, women and some men wait in windows for their next customer. The storefront rooms have curtains that are closed when “business” is being conducted. You’ll see lots of foreign businessmen and tourists milling around (many very drunk). Be careful at night as the area is a prime pickpocket spot. By the way, don’t even think about taking photos. Your camera will likely be confiscated. (Can you believe that it has a web site?) Info: De Walletjes/De Wallen (Red-Light District). Behind Dam Square between Oudezijds Voorburgwal and Oudezijds Achterburgwal. http://www.red-light-district.nl/.

From sex clubs to live sex shows (especially the famous Casa Rosso at 106 Oudezijds Achterburgwal), sex is a big part of Amsterdam’s tourist industry. Locals don’t bat an eye at any of this, but you might. If you’re not interested in seeing any of it, stay away from the Red-Light District and the area around it. You can easily visit Amsterdam’s other wonderful sights without encountering any of the sex industry.

Picasso Museum in Paris closed for renovations until 2012

2009-10-03T08:31:00.000-05:00

The famous and very popular Musee Picasso in Paris is now closed for renovation until 2012. If you're interested in seeing the works of this artist, ten of Picasso's works are on display at the nearby Pompidou Center.

If it's good enough for Barbra Steisand ... Arzak near San Sebastian, Spain

2009-10-02T11:21:00.000-05:00

Recently Barbra Streisand appeared on Oprah and talked about dining in Spain. I received a few emails asking for more information about the restaurant she talked about (she also showed some food photos). The restaurant, which is featured in my Open Road's Best of Spain book is Arzak.

Located in the childhood home of chef Juan Mari Arzak, this celebrated restaurant is on the road (from San Sebastian, Spain) heading to the border with France. Traditional Basque specialties are served, often with a French influence. It’s a dining experience. Reservations are required. Info: 21 Alto de Miracruz. Tel. 943285593. Closed Sun (dinner), Mon, last half of June and Nov. http://www.arzak.es/. €€€

US State Department Warning for Travel to Germany

2009-09-24T22:08:00.001-05:00

American travelers warned about al-Qaida attacks in Germany

U.S. State Department issues travel alert urging American travelers in Germany to be cautious after al-Qaida threatens attacks around Sept. 27 German elections

By Kristin Jackson

Seattle Times Travel staff

The terrorist group al-Qaida has threatened to conduct attacks in Germany immediately before and following the federal elections on Sunday, and the U.S. State Department is urging Americans traveling in Germany to be cautious.

Al-Qaida recently released a video specifically warning Germany of attacks. German authorities are taking the threat seriously and are enhancing security throughout the country, said the State Department.

A travel alert was issued today for Germany by the State Department. It urges U.S. citizens to maintain a low profile, monitor news reports and consider the level of security present when visiting public places or choosing hotels and restaurants.

Travelers can get up-to-date information on security conditions in Germany and other countries atwww.travel.state.gov. Or phone 888-407-4747 in the United States or 202-501-4444 from outside the United States and Canada.

Paris in the fall?

2009-09-02T08:26:00.000-05:00

Looking to visit Paris on a budget? Last year, the average air and hotel package booked on Expedia for November was half the average cost for April. Although it can be a little rainy in the fall, I love Paris. We visit every Thanksgiving and find the lines short, prices cheaper, and the pace slower. Try it!

Renting an apartment in Paris

2009-08-22T10:52:00.000-05:00

One great way to truly experience life in a European city is to rent an apartment. They’re usually less expensive and larger than a hotel room. If I didn’t have to check out hotels, I would always stay in an apartment. Many come with a washer/dryer combination that allows you to pack less. There are many apartments for rent on the Internet. Here are a few that receive good reviews.

http://www.vrbo.com/139753

www.rentalo.com

www.parisleftbankrental .com

www.ahparis.com

www.parisperfect.com

www.parisbandb.com (apartments and bed and breakfast)

Berlin's Holocaust Memorials: Remembering Jewish and Gay Victims of Nazi Rule

2009-08-18T10:00:00.008-05:00

The Denkmal für die Ermordeten Juden Europas (Memorial to the Murdered European Jews) is a powerful and massive, five-and-a-half-acres memorial. 2,711 gravestone-like columns honor those Jews killed by the Nazis. It opened in May, 2005, after years of planning and controversy. When you are walking along the cobblestone walkways between the pillars, it is intended to invoke a feeling of being lost, alone and disoriented. The paths between the pillars slope down as you move deeper into the memorial. There’s an underground center that includes the known names of those killed in the Holocaust along with letters from those on their way to concentration camps. It’s truly a remarkable memorial that recalls the unimaginable. Info: Ebertstrasse and Behrenstrasse. Tel: 030/26394336. Open at all times. Information center open daily 10am-8pm. Admission: Free. S-Bahn: Unter den Linden. http://www.holocaustdenkmal.de/

On the other side of the street (Ebertstrasse) is a concrete slab with a small widow where you view a same-sex couple kissing. This is the Monument to the Homosexuals Persecuted During National Socialism. Homosexuals were rounded up by the Nazis during World War II, forced to wear pink triangles, and sent to concentration camps.

iPhone top language translation apps (but not with menu translators)

2009-08-13T18:30:00.003-05:00

Budget Traveler Magazine looks at iPhone Top Language Translation Apps. You still need to purchase Andy's Eating & Drinking guides to help you translate a menu!

Our favorite apps work with or without Internet access. Because, chances are, Wi-Fi hotspots aren't the only places you'll need help with the local lingo.

By Reid Bramblett, Tuesday, August 11, 2009

BEST FREEBIE
World Nomads
Free

Languages: Twenty-three, including Arabic, Cambodian, Cantonese, Dutch, French, German, Greek, Hindi, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese, Lao, Malay, Mandarin, Nepali, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Swedish, Thai, Turkish, Vietnamese, and Australian—the last app is handy for translating otherwise incomprehensible Aussie slang.

Usability: The World Nomads apps present lists, divided into categories, of a few dozen basic travel phrases. After tapping through the categories, such as "places to stay" and "directions & transport," you can select an appropriate phrase and hear an audio clip of a native speaker pronouncing it—a high-end feature we're surprised to find in a free app.

Frustrations: Dining phrases are missing—a big drawback.

Eating & Drinking in Paris: Les Papilles

2009-07-30T06:10:00.006-05:00

Here's another favorite place to eat (and drink) in Paris:

Les Papilles

5th/Métro Cluny-La Sorbonne (or RER Luxembourg)

30 rue Gay-Lussac

Tel. 01/43.25.20.79

Closed Sun. & part of Aug.

Near the Panthéon, Les Papilles (Tastebuds) sells gourmet foods and wine, and offers creative takes on French cuisine. Try the tender hanger steak. Worth the trip!

Moderate

For more information about Paris, check out Andy Herbach's Eating & Drinking in Paris: French Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide and Open Road's Best of Paris.

Eating & Drinking in Paris: Le Fumoir (near the Louvre)

2009-07-28T20:52:00.004-05:00

If you're visiting the Louvre and looking for a place to relax and have a drink or a snack, here's the place:

Le Fumoir

1st/Métro Louvre-Rivoli

6 rue de l’Amiral-de Coligny

Tel. 01/42.92.00.24

Open daily 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Closed part of Aug.

www.lefumoir.com

This bar and restaurant is located near the Louvre. It’s known for its Sunday brunch, salads, happy hour and gâteau chocolat (chocolate cake). There’s a library in the back where you can have a drink and read (and exchange your own books for the ones in their library). Inexpensive - Moderate

Photo from flickr by Jpeisman

Eating & Drinking in Paris: Bistrot de L’Oulette

2009-07-28T19:57:00.005-05:00

We'll be taking a look at some old (and new) favorites on the Paris dining scene.

Bistrot de L’Oulette (formerly Baracane)

4th/Métro Bastille

38 rue des Tournelles

Tel. 01/42.71.43.33

Closed Sat. (lunch) & Sun.

www.l-oulette.com

Small bistro in the Marais (near the place des Vosges) featuring the specialties of Southwest France (especially confit).

Moderate

The last time we were there, we had a delicious meal and wonderful service. Although the prices are a bit higher than when this bistro was called "Baracane," the food is excellent and won't disappoint. The location is perfect for an after dinner drink at one of the many lively cafes around the place de la Bastille or the place des Vosges.

(Not) Running With The Bulls in Pamplona.

2009-07-08T18:20:00.007-05:00

Pamplona hosts of one of the world’s most famous events: the encierro, or running of the bulls. Some say it’s barbaric, others say it’s a great tradition. At 8:00 a.m. July 6-14, six bulls are released to run the narrow streets to the bullring (where, by the way, they are killed at the bullfight that evening). In 1927, Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises made this event famous. The festival is the Fiesta de San Fermín and the city is swamped with revelers, many drunk and without hotel rooms (as there aren’t nearly enough to accommodate the crowds). Theft is common. It’s simply one non-stop party.

If you choose to visit at any other time of year, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by this tidy, attractive city. You’ll find ruins of a 16^th-century Ciudadela (citadel), a Gothic cathedral, and the Museo de Navarra showcasing art of the region. Pamplona’s main sights are all within walking distance in the historic Old Town.

The heart of the Old Town is the Plaza del Castillo. Check out the attractive Café Iruña at number 44. This square was the site of the former bullring. The current bullring, the Plaza de Toros, is only a few blocks from Plaza del Castillo.

Among the narrow streets around this square is Calle Estafeta, the main street for the running of the bulls and home to many tapas bars. For a break, try the restaurant/bar at Casa Otano at number 5 at nearby Calle San Nicolás. Another attractive square in the old town is the Plaza Consistorial where you’ll find the 18^th-century Ayuntamiento (City Hall) with its ornate façade.

Parts of the Catedral date back to the 14^th century. Its Gothic interior contains the alabaster tomb of Carlos III. Not to be missed are the Gothic arches of its cloister. Also here is the Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum) with a collection of religious art and artifacts. Info: At Calle Curia and Calle Dormitalería. Tel. 948210827. Cathedral open daily. Museum open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm and 4pm-7pm, Sat 10am-2pm. Admision to Cathedral: Free. Admission to Museum: €5.

Pamplona was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Navarra. The Museo de Navarra, located in a 16^th-century former hospital, houses a collection of regional archaeological artifacts, local costumes and art (including a portrait by Goya). Info: 47 Cuesta de Santo Domingo at Calle Jaranta. Tel. 948426492. Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and 5pm-7pm, Sun 10am-2pm. Admission: €4.

For more on visiting Spain, check out Andy Herbach's Open Road's Best of Spain.

Don't take a taxi in Paris. Take the metro.

2009-07-01T06:45:00.008-05:00

The métro system is clearly the best way to get around Paris. It’s orderly, inexpensive and for the most part safe. You’re rarely far from a métro station in Paris. They are marked by a yellow “M” in a circle or by those incredibly beautiful Art Nouveau archways with “Métropolitain” on them. Although you may be confused when you first look at a métro map, simply follow the line that your stop is on and note the last stop (the last stop appears on all the signs) and you’ll soon be scurrying about underground like a Parisian. Service starts at 5:20am and ends at 1:20am (one additional hour on Saturday night/Sunday mornings and the eve of holidays). Métro tickets are also valid on buses. The cost of a métro ticket is €1.70. A carnet of 10 tickets costs €11.70, and the price of a Passe Navigo (a week pass from Monday through Sunday) is €22.50.

The Best of Provence: Colorful Roussillon

2009-06-22T09:22:00.005-05:00

Roussillon is 6 miles (10 km) east of Gordes/28 miles (45 km) east of Avignon.

Legend has it that a local lord had his wife’s lover killed and the wife threw herself off a cliff, staining the rocks with her blood. In reality, two centuries of ochre mining have left this perched village surrounded by red quarries and cliffs. From deep red to light yellow, the colors of this town alone are worth a visit. Although it can be quite crowded in high tourist season, you can still find peaceful, beautiful squares and take in the surrounding countryside.

While here, a good choice for both indoor and outdoor dining is the friendly Bistro de Roussillon, serving hearty Provençal fare. Moderate. Info: place de la Marine. Tel. 04/90.05.74.45. Closed Jan and mid-Nov to mid-Dec.

For more on Roussillon and Provence, check out Open Road's Best of Provence.

www.eatndrink.com

The Changing Face of Valencia, Spain

2009-06-18T18:22:00.006-05:00

Valencia, Spain’s third-largest city, doesn’t fit easily into any tour of Spain (it’s over 200 miles from Barcelona and Madrid and 400 miles from the Costa del Sol). But if you’re able to visit, Valencia can be a truly Spanish experience. The real question is, “Can a complex change a city?” That’s what seems to be happening here. Like the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the futuristic Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències has created a domino effect of improvements. The 2007 America’s Cup has also spurred development along the city’s waterfront.

The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències (City of Arts and Sciences) is a major tourist attraction. Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava (who designed, among other things, Milwaukee’s fabulous lakefront art museum) designed this innovative, sprawling complex, which includes:

•L'Hemisferic (Hemispheric Planetarium) shaped like a floating eyeball that even blinks.

•L’Oceanogràphic (Oceanographic Park).

•Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe (Prince Philip Science Museum).

•Palau de les Arts (Palace of the Arts).

There’s also an IMAX Theater, marine habitat, amphitheater, indoor theater and music hall. Info: 7 Ave. Autovía del Saler. Tel. 022100031. www.cac.es. Museum open daily 10am-7pm (Jul to mid-Sep until 9pm). Oceanographic Park open daily 10am-6pm (Jul and Aug until midnight). Hemispheric Planetarium daily shows every hour from 11am-7pm (additional show at 9pm on Fri and Sat). Admission: €31 (includes admission to Museum of Science, Hemispheric Planetarium and Oceanographic Park).

The Institut Valencia d’Art Modern (IVAM) is an art institute with a collection of 20^th-century contemporary art and photography. Info: 118 Guillem de Castro. Tel. 963863000. www.ivam.es. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission: €2, free on Sun. The IVAM is also home to La Sucursal, one of the city’s best restaurants serving contemporary cuisine. Info: Tel. 963746655. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Expensive.

The Museo de Bellas Arts features Spanish artists, including works by Goya and Velàzquez. Info: Calle San Pío. Tel. 963870300. www.cult.gva.es/mbav. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission: Free.

Valencia’s Catedral is best known for its Capilla del Santo Cáliz (Chapel of the Holy Grail) that is home to what some believe is Christ’s cup at the Last Supper. The Cathedral is also home to one of St. Vincent’s arms (!) and a museum featuring Goya’s painting of St. Francis de Broja. Info: Plaza de la Reina. Tel. 963918127. Open daily 7:30am-1pm and 4pm-8:30pm. Admission: Free to cathedral. Museum: €2.

Travelers to Spain often return home with ceramics. At the Palacio de Marques de Dos Aguas you can see the grand ceramic collection housed in the Museo National de Ceramica. Info: 2 Poeta Querol. Tel. 963516392. Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm, Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Mon. Admission: €3.

Dining in Valencia is a pleasant surprise. The city is famous for its rice dishes, especially paella. Contemporary chefs have taken this old favorite and created imaginative cuisine. At Civera (near the Bellas Artes Museum) you’ll dine on Spanish and Mediterranean food, with an emphasis on seafood. Excellent lobster dishes. Info: 11 Calle Lerida. Tel. 963475917. Closed Mon and Aug. Moderate-Expensive.

At El Timonel, the nautical décor is appropriate for this restaurant specializing in seafood (they also have good meat dishes). It’s located just a few blocks from Valencia’s Plaza de Toros, the largest bullring in Spain. Info: 13 Félix Pizcueta. Tel. 963526300. Closed Mon. Moderate-Expensive.

For cheaper dining, try Los Patos, serving specialty duck dishes to pizza in a 20^th-century townhouse in the central city. Good value. Info: 28 Calle del Mar. Tel. 963529323. Closed Mon. Moderate.

While in Valencia, make sure you try the delicious horchata, a milky drink made with crushed tiger nuts. It’s served everywhere. And head to the Barrio del Carmen located around the Plaza del Carmen for a few cañas (glasses of beer) at any of the funky bars here in Valencia’s oldest neighborhood.

For more on Valencia, check out Open Road's Best of Spain. Delta Airlines now has four nonstop flights per week from New York's JFK Airport to Valencia.

Where did President Obama dine while in Paris?

2009-06-08T06:29:00.006-05:00

On his recent trip to Paris, President Obama and the First Lady dined at a restaurant recommended in both Eating & Drinking in Paris and Open Road's Best of Paris. We just hope this doesn't raise the prices at this favorite. Here's information on La Fontaine de Mars:

Red-checked tablecloths, friendly service and reasonable prices near the Eiffel Tower. Try the poulet fermier aux morilles (free-range chicken with morel mushrooms). Info: 7th/Métro École-Militaire. 129 rue St-Dominique. Tel. 01/47.05.46.44.

Shopping for antiques in Paris

2009-06-01T13:36:00.007-05:00

Here are a few choices for shopping for antiques in Paris:

Le Louvre des Antiquaires
You’ll find 250 antique shops at the arcades along rue de Rivoli facing the Louvre. You can go inside and visit all of these shops (not just enter from rue de Rivoli). There are Art Deco objects, antiquities, furniture and art. Info: 2nd/Métro Palais Royal. Place du Palais-Royal. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. http://www.louvre-antiquaires.com/.

Village St-Paul

An attractive passageway with cobblestone courtyards and interesting shops, especially antique shops. Info: 4th/Métro St-Paul in the Marais. 23-27 rue St-Paul. Open Thu-Mon 11am-7pm.

Near the rue du Bac metro

You’ll find over 100 antique shops on rue du Bac, rue de Lille and rue de l’Université in the Carré Rive Gauche (between St-Germain-des-Prés and the Musée d’Orsay). Info: 7th/Metro rue du Bac.

Taken from Open Road's Best of Paris.

Spain's City of Wine

2009-05-13T08:44:00.003-05:00

Wine tourism is on the rise in Spain, the world’s third-largest wine producer (after France and Italy). Just a little over one hour south of Bilbao is the La Rioja wine region. Its capital is Haro whose barrio de la estación (train-station neighborhood) is dotted with wineries (bodegas) where you can sample the region’s wines. Head to nearby sleepy Elciego (its Basque name is Eltziego). Here you’ll find the Hotel Marqués de Riscal, designed by architect Frank Gehry (his magnificent Guggenheim Museum is in Bilbao). You can’t miss its roof wrapped in pink, silver and gold titanium ribbons. Opened in 2006, the luxury hotel is home to a “City of Wine” including a renowned restaurant (Echaurren), a wine bar, wine tastings, cooking school, wine museum and shop, and “vinothérapie” spa with such features as bathing in wine. Now that’s a total wine experience! Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you can tour the winery and taste two of the local wines for €10 (tours are in English, reservations must be made in advance). Info: 1 Calle Torrea. Tel. 945180880. http://www.marquesderiscal.com/. Elciego and the “City of Wine” are 68 miles (110 km) south of Bilbao/76 miles (122 km) southwest of Pamplona. If you’re driving from Bilbao, take Highway E-70 to Highway A8 in the direction of Victoria-Burgos. Follow Highway AP68 to the Cenicero exit (Exit 10). Continue past the toll booth and turn right onto N-232. Proceed for 1 kilometer and turn left onto LR-512. Turn right onto A-3210 and continue to Elciego.

Eating & Drinking in Venice: Cicheti Bars

2009-05-11T08:20:00.006-05:00

Cicheti (chee-keht-tee) are the Venetian version of tapas. Cicheti (cichetti) are small portions of food served in bars in Venice, usually with an ombra (a small glass of wine.)

Here are a few places where you can hang out with locals and try a fun Venetian tradition. All are located near the Rialto vaporetto stop.

Osteria alla Botte

5482 Calle della Bissa (east end of the Rialto Bridge near Campo San Bartolomeo)

Tel. 041/5209775

Closed Thu. and Sun.

Osteria Sora al Ponte

1588 Ponte delle Beccarie (near the Rialto Bridge Market off of Campo de la Beccarie)

Tel. 041/718208

Closed Mon.

Bancogiro

122 Campo San Giacometto (west end of Rialto Bridge along the Grand Canal)

Tel. 041/5232061

Closed Sun. (dinner) and Mon.

For more on dining in Venice, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide.

Wine Tasting in Paris

2009-05-08T09:33:00.003-05:00

"Coming to Paris and not tasting good French wines is like going to the U.S. and not trying a good burger," says Olivier Magny of Ô Château. This young French sommelier will guide you through a fun, informative and relaxing wine tasting in his new Parisian location. Info: 1st/Métro Louvre-Rivoli. 52 rue de l'arbre sec . Tel. 01/44.73.97.80. Admission: from €20 per person. www.o-chateau.com.

Berlin's Holocaust Memorial

2009-04-23T12:12:00.003-05:00

Denkmal für die Ermordeten Juden Europas
(Memorial to the Murdered European Jews/Holocaust Memorial)
Ebertstrasse and Behrenstrasse
Phone: 74072929
Open at all times. Information center open daily 10am-8pm
Admission: Free
S-Bahn: Unter den Linden
http://www.holocaustmahnmal.de/

This powerful and massive, five-and-a-half-acres memorial of 2,711 gravestone-like columns honors those Jews killed by the Nazis. It opened in May, 2005, after years of planning and controversy. When you are walking along the cobblestone walkways between the pillars, it is intended to invoke a feeling of being lost, alone and disoriented. The paths between the pillars slope down as you move deeper into the memorial. There’s an underground center that includes the known names of those killed in the Holocaust along with letters from those on their way to concentration camps. It’s truly a remarkable memorial that recalls the unimaginable.

Italian dining in Berlin

2009-04-23T11:32:00.004-05:00

When you get tired of all that heavy German food while in Berlin, head to Al Sarago. This authentic Italian eatery is located just off the lovely Victoria-Luise-Platz. The staff is extremely friendly and you'll dine with locals on such dishes as ravioli di ricotta burro e salvia. Wash it all down with an excellent bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo red wine. Highly recommended. Info: 1 Regensburger. Tel. 030/2137711. Open noon-midnight. www.alsarago.de.

Eating & Drinking in Paris: The best baguettes in Paris?

2009-04-22T06:47:00.016-05:00

If you're looking for the best baguettes in Paris, head to Kayser.

You'll find excellent baguettes, specialty breads like the coarse and hearty pain au levain, and delicious pain au chocolate. Info: 5th/Métro Maubert-Mutualité. 8 and 14 rue Monge. Tel. 01/44.07.01.42 and 01/44.07.17.81. Closed Tue. www.maison-kayser.com

Berlin Celebrates the Fall of the Berlin Wall

2009-04-18T19:36:00.006-05:00

After World War II, the Allies divided Berlin into four sectors. The American, French and British sectors became West Berlin, and East Berlin was controlled by the Soviet Union. Between 1949 and 1961, three million people left East Germany. To stop this mass exodus, a 100-mile fence was erected virtually overnight on August 13, 1961, a barrier that remained for 28 years. Ultimately, the concrete wall was 13 feet tall and had a buffer zone (no man’s land) of between 25 and 160 feet. Three hundred guard towers were built to monitor the area around the wall. In that 28-year period, 5,043 people are known to have successfully gotten around the wall. Guards fired at 1,693 people and made 3,221 arrests. In all, 1,067 are said to have died trying to flee East Germany, and as many as 263 of the deaths were at the Berlin Wall. Did you know that the GDR referred to the wall as “The Anti-Fascist Protective Rampart”? Guards suspected of shooting to miss were court-marshaled. A total of 52 military officials and 141 border guards were charged with manslaughter or attempted manslaughter for killings at the border, although most were given suspended sentences. Only 11 spent time in prison.

Almost the entire wall is gone, having been chipped away as souvenirs or demolished. A 230-feet-long portion of the wall was reconstructed and includes bits and pieces of the original wall. The “new wall” is mostly stainless steel and contains narrow holes allowing you to look to the other side. It’s located at Bernauer Strasse and Ackerstrasse, not too far from the Bernauer Strasse U-Bahn. A large stretch still stands along Wilhelmstrasse. Behind it is a park on the site of Hitler’s SS command center.

Berlin has erected several temporary (and free) exhibits about the erection of the wall, life in a divided city, and the fall of the wall. It's just another reason to visit this fantastic city!

A report from Munich: Marienplatz

2009-04-07T08:15:00.003-05:00

A visit to Munich should start with a trip to Marienplatz (Mary’s Square) the medieval town square and the pedestrian zone around it. Take the S- or U-Bahn to the Marienplatz stop. The square is named after the Virgin Mary. Her statue has been here since 1638. Dominating the square is the ornate Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) dating back to 1867. You can take the elevator up to the top of its glockenspiel for a good view of the city (€2, Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat & Sun 10am-7pm). Or, you can have a seat at a café and watch the daily “show” at 11:00, noon (and 5pm from May-Oct). 32 life-sized figures reenact historical Bavarian events. You’ll see dancing barrel-makers and Bavarians (they’re in the white and blue) defeating their enemies. A golden bird chirps three times to signal the end of the show.

As you face the New Town Hall, the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) is to your right. Destroyed in WWII, it’s been rebuilt. That’s Ludwig IV front and center.

Behind the New Town Hall at 14 Dienerstrasse is Alois Dallmayr, a deli. Okay, not just some deli, but the former deli to the royals. You can check out the wide selection of food and drink. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-7pm. Closed Sun.

Dining under the stars in Madrid.

2009-03-31T08:52:00.004-05:00

El Mirador del Museo
International and Spanish dishes are served under the stars on the top floor of the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. Truly a unique experience. Good wine list. Info: 8 Paseo del Prado. Tel 914292732. Open Jul and Aug. Reservations required. Metro: Banco de España.

Eating & Drinking in Italy: Turin (Torino)

2009-03-22T21:02:00.004-05:00

Turin, host of the last winter Olympics, is a wonderful city. On my recent trip to check out its restaurants, I visited the quaint Al Bicerin. Founded in 1763, this tiny cafe is a great place when visiting the market at nearby Piazza della Repubblica (Monday to Saturday 8am-2pm). You have to order a bicerin, a combination of chocolate, coffee and cream. Info: 5 Piazza della Consolata. Tel. 011/4369325. Closed Wed. www.bicerin.it.

An Irish Terrier helps you calculate the cost of your next trip (Happy St. Patrick's Day!)

2009-03-16T20:45:00.007-05:00

Times are tough, so before you take your vacation, figure out how much it really is going to cost. Go to the link below and do a quick calculation of the cost of your next trip. The calculator reminds you to include such things as parking and pet care costs while you're away. A helpful tool!

www.independenttraveler.com/travel-budget-calculator/

Photo of Rosie, the Irish Terrier, on her 4th birthday on St. Patrick's Day.

Paris Favorites: Eating, Drinking and Shopping

2009-03-16T20:28:00.010-05:00

David Lebovitz has one of the best web sites/bogs for "foodies" visiting Paris. He's compiled a list of favorite dining spots by authors of guides to Paris. It's definitely worth checking out, so here's where you'll find the list...

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2009/03/paris_favorites_eating_drinking.html

Photo courtesy of David Lebovitz (www.davidlebovitz.com).

Long layover at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport? Visit an art museum.

2009-03-12T17:53:00.008-05:00

The Rijksmuseum (Royal Museum) in Amsterdam is one of the world's greatest art museums with masterpieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and countless others. It's also the first museum in the world to have an annex in an airport. The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol is located behind passport control between the E and F Piers. It's free and open every day from 7am to 8pm. So, next time you have a long layover here, take in some fantastic art!

Eating & Drinking in Paris: La Veraison

2009-03-12T11:08:00.002-05:00

Sometimes it's fun to travel to "remote" areas of Paris to have dinner. La Veraison is certainly worth the trip. It's casual and small -- the one-man kitchen is up front, and you'll see the chef cooking as you walk in. Excellent selection of wines (the chef will obligingly zip out from behind the stove to help you make a selection). The food is a modern take on traditional French cooking. The neighborhood is residential and we were the only non-locals dining. My veal was excellent and the chocolate and creme caramel dessert was fantastic. Highly recommended.

La Veraison

64 rue de la Croix Nivert

Tel. 01/45.32.49.49

15th/Metro Commerce

Closed Sun and Mon

http://www.laveraison.com/

Eating & Drinking in Italy: Positano

2009-03-11T14:38:00.002-05:00

Da Aldolfo

After a 15-minute boat ride, you'll arrive at Laurito beach where you'll find this beachfront restaurant and bar. There are changing rooms and showers, and you can rent an umbrella and lounge chair. The specialty here is grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves. Delicious fish dishes. Unique! Info: Accessible by the "red fish" boat departing from the main pier from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to about 6:30pm - later on Sat. in July and August. Closed Oct-Apr. www.daadolfo.com

Madrid's Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

2009-03-10T09:04:00.001-05:00

While you can see traditional art at the Prado and contemporary art at the Reina Sofia, you can see both at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. This interesting and eclectic collection (very Impressionism-heavy), acquired by the Spanish government in 1993, features works by Picasso, Velázquez, Goya, El Greco, Dürer, Caravaggio and Rembrandt. It also has a collection of contemporary works, including some by Pollock, Lichtenstein and Kandinsky, and there’s an interesting section of art from the USA, including works by Georgia O’Keefe and David Hockney. Info: 8 Paseo del Prado. Closed Mon. Metro: Banco de España. www.museothyssen.org.

Barcelona's Mercat de la Boqueria.

2009-03-09T14:44:00.001-05:00

Pass through the iron gateway to one of the largest, most interesting and colorful markets in Europe. You’ll find everything from fresh produce to delicious snacks under its wrought iron-and-glass roof. Each stall in the market is numbered. My favorite is the counter of El Quim at numbers 584-585. It’s a great place for a drink and tapas. Info: 91 La Rambla. Open 8am-8:30pm. Closed Sundays. Admission: Free.

Eating & Drinking in Cinque Terre

2009-03-03T17:19:00.006-06:00

The highlight of any trip to the Liguria region of Italy is Cinque Terre. Five beautiful towns, which until recently were accessible only by train or a series of hiking paths. Perched on dramatic cliffs above the sea, you will experience car-free serenity and an Italy of old. Here are some recommended restaurants to visit while exploring the Cinque Terre.

De Mananan
117 Via Fieschi, Corniglia
Tel. 0187/821166
Closed Tue.
Hearty fare served in the cellar of a home in the smallest Cinque Terre town. Many dishes feature pesto. Try the pansoti (triangular-shaped filled pasta). Moderate

Marina Piccola
16 Via Lo Scalo, Manarola
Tel. 0187/920103
Closed Tue.
Dine on delicious cozze (mussels) or zuppe di pesce (fish stew) at this waterside restaurant. Moderate

Miki
104 Via Fegina, Monterosso al Mare
Tel. 0187/817608
Closed Tue. from Sep. to July, and all of Nov. and Dec.
Ligurian seafood served in this charming Cinque Terre town. Enjoy delicious antipasti while you take in the sea view. Moderate – Expensive

Gambero Rosso
7 Piazza Marconi, Vernazza
Tel. 0187/812265
Closed Mon., Jan. and Feb.
Ligurian specialties at this harborside restaurant (it’s been open for over 100 years). The creamy pesto is fantastic. Moderate – Expensive

Trattoria Gianni Franzi
1 Piazza Marconi, Vernazza
Tel. 0187/821003
Closed Wed., Mar. to mid-July and mid-Sep. to Jan.
Dine on fresh grilled fish and excellent ravioli on the lovely main square. Have a glass of limoncino (lemon liqueur). Moderate

For more on dining in Italy, check out the 5th edition of Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide.

Paris Restaurant: Beefy Le Severo

2009-02-27T08:28:00.003-06:00

Paris restaurant recommendation: Le Severo.

Check out this small bistro away from the tourists. The chef used to be a butcher and the beef here is fantastic. I’d make the trip just for the fries! The wine blackboard fills a whole wall of this bistro. Looking for a truly Parisian experience? This is the place. Info: 14th/Métro Alesia or Mouton-Duvernet. 8 rue des Plantes. Tel. 01/45.40.40.91. Closed Sat, Sun and Aug. Moderate.

What to do after dinner in Paris.

2009-02-27T08:20:00.007-06:00

After dinner in Paris, head to Café Marly at 93 rue de Rivoli (1st/Métro Palais Royal-Musée d’Orsay). You’ll pay for the view overlooking the glass-pyramid entrance to the Louvre, but it’s a great place to end your first day in Paris with a glass of champagne. How French! Info: 93 rue de Rivoli. Tel. 01/49.26.06.60. Open daily 8am to 2am.

Or you can visit the Eiffel Tower. The lines will be short, the view memorable, and the light show on the hour is spectacular. There’s no better way to end your day! Info: 7th/Métro Trocadéro, École Militaire or Bir-Hakeim. Champ de Mars. Tel. 01/44.11.23.23. Open daily.

Dining in Spain

2009-02-26T06:43:00.004-06:00

It cannot be stressed enough that Spaniards eat extremely late. The evening meal is usually served between 10 p.m. and midnight. While some restaurants have begun to open earlier, especially in restaurants that are frequented by tourists, most Spaniards still eat late, and you'll find a more genuine Spanish dining experience if you do, too.

The Spanish love tapas. They’re small amounts of nearly any kind of food, usually served with a small glass of wine, beer or spirit. The time between lunch and dinner is usually when most Spaniards frequent tapas bars. You can have a porcíon (small sample) or a racíon (a larger serving). The word tapa means lid or cover. It’s said that this tradition started in the 18th century when Carlos III asked for his wine to be covered with a plate of food to stop dust from getting into it. Bars that serve wine, beer and snacks/appetizers (both hot and cold) are known as tascas. Tapeo is the act of bar-hopping in the early evening, eating tapas and drinking, before Spain’s very late dinner hour. Many tapas bars don’t take credit cards, and it’s usually cheaper to order at the bar rather than at a table.

For suggestions on great places to sample tapas, check out the new 2nd edition of Best of Spain.

No credit card? No drink.

2009-02-24T14:22:00.003-06:00

Need a drink, snack, headset? If you're on an international flight, you should be okay. If you're on a domestic flight, you better get out your credit card or debit card. American Airlines has joined the list of airlines that require a credit or debit card to pay for purchases onboard.

Other airlines that don't take cash include AirTran, Alaska Airlines, Midwest Airlines, and Southwest Airlines. United Airlines is rumoured to be joining the list.

Nice (France) Gets Even Nicer

2009-02-05T12:31:00.003-06:00

Why some avoid Nice is perplexing. It’s 20 miles (33 km) northeast of Cannes/567 miles (912 km) south of Paris. Nice, on the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels), has on average 300 sunny days a year, many important historical sights and museums, a fabulous Old Town, and great dining. Nice was part of Italy until 1860 and you’ll see the Italian influence in everything from architecture to cuisine. Yes, it’s a large city, but if you simply take time to experience it, you’ll learn to love Nice.

Now, it's easy to get around the city. Nice's new tram line is up and running which has resulted in fewer cars and some nice renovation of the squares in conjunction with the installation of the tram lines.

For more information on visiting Nice, check out Open Road's Best of Provence and the French Riviera.

Berlin's New DDR Museum Lets You Experience Life in Former East Germany

2009-02-05T12:10:00.005-06:00

Berlin's new DDR Museum presents everday life in the former communist East Germany in a playful and interactive way. All aspects of life in the former communist state of East Germany (the "DDR") are featured. You'll sit in a tiny Trabant automobile (pictured here), check out communist-era concrete slab buildings, relax in an authentic DDR living room and learn about the Stasi (the secret police). The DDR Museum will be featured in Andy's upcoming Best of Germany book (to be released early next year).

DDR Museum

1 Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (on the Spree River opposite the Berlin Cathedral)

Tel. 030/84712373

Open daily 10am-8pm (Saturday until 10pm)

http://www.ddr-museum.de/

Arcos de la Frontera: Your Introduction to Spain's White Villages

2009-02-05T12:00:00.003-06:00

Your introduction to the white villages (pueblos blancos) of Andalusia begins with Arcos de la Frontera, 17 miles (28 km) east of Jerez (off of A-4 via route A-382), where whitewashed houses stand on a limestone ridge above the Guadalete River valley. The newer town is located on the lower slopes of the ridge.

If you park in the car park at the bottom of the hill, you can take the Paseo de los Boliches up for great views of the valley. You can also drive into town and attempt to park at the main square Plaza del Cabildo. It’s usually a losing proposition to try to find parking, especially in high season (€1 per hour, get a ticket from the machine), and the streets are narrow and quite steep. In other words, don’t try it.

The Old Town is a maze of cobblestone streets leading up to the castle (Castillo Ducal). Calle Maldonado is lined with 18th-century palaces with windows covered with wrought-iron (called rejas).

The Plaza del Cabildo is the center of town and the starting point for your visit. The mirador (viewpoint) offers spectacular views of the countryside. The Parador (state-run hotel) is here and a great place for a break or lunch. Also here is the city hall with a tourist-information center (open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm, Sun 10am-2pm). Pop into Santa María. Built on the sight of a mosque, this church is a mixture of many styles (Renaissance carved-wood altar, Gothic, Baroque and Rococo). The church is home to the “uncorrupted” remains of St. Felix, a third-century martyr (if you like that sort of macabre stuff). Head east down Calle Escribanos. You’ll pass (on your right) the Convento de las Mercedarias where the hard-working nuns sell boxes of pine-nut cookies called magdalenas for €5 in the lobby. Just push the buzzer.

Next to the convent you’ll find the market (closed Sunday and Monday) located in an unfinished church.

If you continue down Calle Boticas you’ll ultimately reach the church of San Pedro, perched on the edge of the cliff.

Just past the church of San Pedro is the Galeria de Arte where you can purchase pottery, paintings and local products.

This excerpt is taken from Open Road's Best of Spain.

The New Edition of Best of Spain Adds Section on Ibiza

2009-02-05T11:49:00.005-06:00

The new (second) edition of Open Road's Best of Spain is now available. The guide has been fully updated and we've added a section on the island of Ibiza. Here are three great places to dine in Ibiza.

El Olivo €€-€€€
Sit outdoors and watch the interesting parade of people while dining on local and international cuisine. Try the excellent lomo de conejo (fillet of rabbit) or dorada a la plancha (grilled dorada). Info: 7-9 Plaça de Vila. Tel. 971300680.

Il Tappo €€
This small restaurant in the Dalt Vila has friendly service, reliable Italian dishes (try the gnocchi with gorgonzola), and excellent deserts. Interesting wine list. Info: Carrer Santa Cruz. Tel. 971394248.

Trattoria del Mar €€
Dine at this restaurant on the Marina Botafoch while looking at the stunningly lit Old Town. The emphasis here is on Italian food, but you’ll also find great seafood and local specialties. Info: On the Marina Botafoch. Tel. 971193934.

Site of Hitler's Bunker in Berlin

2009-02-05T11:39:00.003-06:00

The location of the Führerbunker (Hitler’s Bunker) is now marked. For years, the German government had specifically left it unmarked in fear that it would become a pilgrimage shrine for neo-Nazis. There’s a parking lot on the spot where it’s said that the bodies of Eva Braun and Adolph Hitler were burnt. Some of the bunker was destroyed by the Soviets at the end of the war, and other parts were recently discovered during a construction project. It’s located at the corner of In den Ministergarten and Gertrude Kolmar Strasse (near the Holocaust Memorial). The site of Hitler's Bunker is part of the Berlin Wall Walk found in "Berlin Made Easy."

Berlin celebrates the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall

2009-01-29T08:21:00.005-06:00

German Chancellor Angela Merkel chose the archives of the dreaded East German police to begin nearly a year of commemorations marking the 20th anniversary of the opening of the Berlin Wall. (The photos are the Brandenburg Gate and a remnant of the Berlin Wall).

The anniversary itself will be marked with a three-day festival from November 7-9 at the Brandenburg Gate, the symbol of Germany's postwar division and then of its unification. The gate lay for years behind the East Berlin side of the wall.

East and West Germany were reunited Nov. 9, 1990 - a year to the day after the wall fell.

Source: AOL News

Running (or walking): A Great Way to See the Major Sights of Paris!

2009-01-28T09:05:00.004-06:00

If you would like a pdf map of this run/walk, just email me at eatndrink@aol.com and I'll email you the map.

Approximate distance: five miles (two miles to place de l'Alma and three miles to Arc de Triomphe).

Take the metro (subway) to the Ecole Militaire stop.

You’ll see the huge Ecole Militaire (Royal Military Academy).

Now start running to the Eiffel Tower.

The Champ de Mars are the long gardens that stretch from the Ecole Militaire to the Eiffel Tower. Run under the fabulous Eiffel Tower. It’s without doubt the most recognizable structure in the world.

Run behind the Eiffel Tower and cross the bridge (the Pont d’Iéna).

Once you cross the bridge, you’ll see the huge Chaillot Palace surrounded by more than 60 fountains.

Turn right (as you face the palace) on the avenue de New York along the Seine River. Follow avenue de New York until you reach the Pont de l’Alma (the second bridge). At the place de l’Alma, you’ll see a replica of the torch of the Statue of Liberty.

The replica of the torch of the Statue of Liberty was erected here in 1987. It was meant to commemorate the French Resistance during World War II. It just happens to be over the tunnel where Princess Diana and her boyfriend Dodi Al-Fayedh were killed in an automobile crash in 1997. The Liberty Flame is now an unofficial shrine covered with notes, flowers and prayers to the dead princess.

If you’ve had enough running, here’s a good place to take the metro Alma Marceau back to your hotel. But if you want to continue, head down the avenue Marceau. It’s one of the streets off of place de l’Alma. It’s less than one mile on avenue Marceau to the Arc de Triomphe.

At the Arc de Triomphe, twelve avenues pour into the circle around the Arc. There’s an observation deck providing one of the greatest views of Paris down the Champs-Élysées.

Tired? If so, here’s a good place to take the métro Charles-de-Gaulle-Étoile back to your hotel. But if you want to continue, head down the Champs-Élysées.

The Champs-Élysées is one of the most famous in the world. At avenue Winston-Churchill you can gaze at the recently renovated Grande and Petit Palais.

Continue down the Champs-Élysées until you reach the huge place de la Concorde.

At the end of your run, admire the huge place de la Concorde. In the center of these 21 acres stands the Obelisk of Luxor, an Egyptian column from the 13th century covered with hieroglyphics. It was here that Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were guillotined during the French Revolution.

Here, you’ll end your run/walk of the great sights of Paris!

The Best Paris Markets

2009-01-28T06:47:00.004-06:00

If nothing else, food markets are very interesting. Though you may feel intimidated by the wild goings-on (not to mention the sights and smells) it is absolutely worth a trip to see a real outdoor Parisian market. Filled with colorful vendors, stinky cheese, fresh produce, poultry and hanging rabbits, this is real Paris at its most diverse and beautiful. Parisians still shop (some every day) at food markets around the city. Unless noted otherwise, all are open Tuesday through noon on Sunday. Some of the best-known are:

Rue Montorgueil, 1st/Métro Les Halles
Rue Mouffetard, 5th/Métro Censier-Daubenton
Rue de Buci, 6th/Métro Mabillon
Marché Raspail, 6th/Métro Rennes (open Sunday) (organic)
Rue Cler, 7th/Métro École Militaire
Marché Bastille on the boulevard Richard Lenoir,
11th/Métro Bastille (open Thursday and Sunday)
Rue Daguerre, 14th/Métro Denfert-Rochereau
Rue Poncelet, 17th/Métro Ternes

Spain expands its high-speed train lines

2009-01-14T06:16:00.006-06:00

Spain has expanded its high-speed (AVE) train lines. Here are the existing high-speed routes:

Madrid to Seville (including a stop in Córdoba)

Madrid to Segovia (ending in Valladolid)

Madrid to Barcelona (with stops including Zaragoza)

Barcelona to Seville (via Zaragoza, Córdoba and Madrid)

Barcelona to Málaga (via Zaragoza, Córdoba and Madrid)

Madrid to Huesca (via Guadalajara, Calatayud and Zaragoza)

Madrid to Málaga (via Ciudad Real, Puertollano, Córdoba and Antequera)

These routes significantly cut down on travel time between Spain's main tourist destinations. For more information, check out www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/jan/13/spain-trains

Winter 2008 Paris restaurant update

2008-12-02T13:07:00.005-06:00

Newcomer: Sometimes it's fun to travel to "remote" areas of Paris to have dinner. La Veraison is certainly worth the trip. My friend Trish recommended this new restaurant in an earlier blog entry. Here's what she said:

One of my new favorites is La Veraison, in the 15th. It's casual and small -- the one-man kitchen is up front, and you'll see the chef cooking as you walk in. Excellent selection of natural wines (the chef will obligingly zip out from behind the stove to help you make a selection). The food is a modern take on traditional French cooking: fresh, seasonal ingredients, simple but appealing presentation, beautifully cooked. Plus it's just fun to go somewhere that's a bit off the beaten tourist path...

We recently had Thanksgiving dinner here. The neighborhood is residential and we were the only non-locals dining. The staff is helpful and the chef will certainly come and talk to you while you're visiting. My veal was excellent and the chocolate and creme caramel dessert was fantastic. Highly recommended.

La Veraison
64 rue de la Croix Nivert
Tel. 01/45.32.49.49
15th/Metro Commerce
Closed Sun and Mon
http://www.laveraison.com/

Goodbye La Maison: An old favorite is no more. La Maison in the 5th has been purchased by new owners who are changing the name to Cafe Lunic. Claude, the fun and interesting former owner, and his French bulldog "Polo" have retired. We dined with friends at La Maison on the night before they changed its name to Cafe Lunic. The food was good (actually very good), but since they are changing not only the name, but the menu, we'll have to wait to see about the new restaurant.

Like going to a party (one with good food): Aux Trois Petits Cochons is a lively, friendly and gay (in every sense of the word) bistro in the Montorgueil quarter. If available, make sure you try the excellent blanquette de veau (veal stew). I started my meal with the delicious pumpkin soup. Always a good time and always a great meal.

Aux Trois Petits Cochons
2nd/Metro Etienne Marcel
31 rue Tiquetonne
Tel. 01/42.33.39.69
Open daily. No lunch
http://www.auxtroispetitscochons.fr/

Basque cuisine: Tiny Au Bascou continues to serve Basque specialties such as piperade (a spicy omelet). It doesn't look like much from the outside, but the food will not disappoint. There's a new owner and chef. Interesting regional wine list. Too bad they are closed on weekends.

Au Bascou
3rd/Metro Arts-et-Metiers
38 rue Reaumur (at rue Volta)
Tel. 01/42.72.69.25
Closed weekends and August

It is possible to find reasonable prices in the 7th: Oudino is located on a small street in the 7th. You can start your meal with a salade cesar (Caesar salad) and dine on excellent entrecote. A real find. The staff is very friendly and you'll be dining with locals.

Oudino
7th/Metro Vaneau
17 rue Oudino
Tel. 01/45.66.05.09
Closed Sat (lunch) and Sun.
http://www.oudino.com/

Did I mention how great it is to dine in smoke-free restaurants?!

New Year's Eve in Europe

2008-11-24T14:32:00.003-06:00

Where will you be celebrating New Year's Eve? We've celebrated New Year's Eve in Paris at the Eiffel Tower and in Amsterdam at Dam Square. Both were great celebrations. With more than one million guests, the New Year’s Eve Party in Berlin is one of the world’s largest New Year celebrations. Between the Brandenburg Gate and the Victory Column, you'll find show stages, video screens, a media center, party tents, food stands and refreshment stands. The highlight is the spectacular midnight fireworks display. For more information, go to http://www.silvester-berlin.de/.

Calculate the cost of your next trip (and don't forget all those "extras.")

2008-10-21T06:57:00.006-05:00

Times are tough, so before you take your vacation, figure out how much it really is going to cost. Go to the link below and do a quick calculation of the cost of your next trip. This calculator reminds you to include such things as parking and pet care costs while you're away. A helpful tool!

http://www.independenttraveler.com/travel-budget-calculator/

Spain's City of Wine

2008-10-12T20:17:00.002-05:00

Wine tourism is on the rise in Spain, the world’s third-largest wine producer (after France and Italy). Just a little over one hour south of Bilbao is the La Rioja wine region. Its capital is Haro whose barrio de la estación (train-station neighborhood) is dotted with wineries (bodegas) where you can sample the region’s wines.

We’ll head to nearby sleepy Elciego (its Basque name is Eltziego). Here you’ll find the Hotel Marqués de Riscal, designed by architect Frank Gehry (you saw his magnificent Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao). You can’t miss its roof wrapped in pink, silver and gold titanium ribbons. Opened in 2006, the luxury hotel is home to a “City of Wine” including a renowned restaurant (Echaurren), a wine bar, wine tastings, cooking school, wine museum and shop, and “vinothérapie” spa with such features as bathing in wine. Now that’s a total wine experience! Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you can tour the winery and taste two of the local wines for €10 (tours are in English, reservations must be made in advance). Info: 1 Calle Torrea. Tel. 945180880. www.marquesderiscal.com.

Elciego and the “City of Wine” are 68 miles (110 km) south of Bilbao/76 miles (122 km) southwest of Pamplona. If you’re driving from Bilbao, take Highway E-70 to Highway A8 in the direction of Victoria-Burgos. Follow Highway AP68 to the Cenicero exit (Exit 10). Continue past the toll booth and turn right onto N-232. Proceed for 1 kilometer and turn left onto LR-512. Turn right onto A-3210 and continue to Elciego.

(Photo courtesy of Bastian via flickr.com)

What is your favorite Paris restaurant?

2008-10-02T17:31:00.000-05:00

Le Severo
Small bistro away from the tourists. The chef used to be a butcher and the beef here is fantastic. I’d make the trip just for the fries! The wine blackboard fills a whole wall of this bistro. Looking for a truly Parisian experience? This is the place. Info: 14th/Métro Alesia Metro Alesia or Mouton-Duvernet. 8 rue des Plantes. Tel. 01/45.40.40.91. Closed Sat, Sun. and Aug. Moderate.

(Photo by Karl Raaum)

Paris Budget Dining Tips

2008-09-29T18:46:00.000-05:00

There’s no need to spend a lot of money in Paris to have good food. Of course it helps when the euro is weaker than the dollar, but there are all kinds of fabulous foods to be had inexpensively all over Paris.

Eat at a neighborhood restaurant or bistro. The menu, with prices, is posted in the window. Never order anything whose price is not known in advance. If you see selon grosseur (sometimes abbreviated as s/g), this means that you’re paying by weight, which can be extremely expensive. Avoid restaurants and bistros with English menus.

Delis and food stores can provide cheap and wonderful meals. Buy some cheese, bread, wine and other snacks and have a picnic in one of Paris’s great parks.

Lunch, even at the most expensive restaurants listed in this guide, always has a lower fixed price. So, have lunch as your main meal.

Large department stores frequently have supermarkets (in the basement) and restaurants that have reasonably priced food.

Street vendors generally sell inexpensive and terrific food.

For the cost of a cup of coffee or a drink, you can linger at a café and watch the world pass you by for as long as you want.

(Photo courtesy of Aux Trois Petits Cochons Restaurant in Paris)

Rent an apartment in Europe

2008-09-23T20:05:00.000-05:00

On great way to truly experience life in a European city is to rent an apartment. They're usually less expensive and larger than a hotel room. If I didn't have to check out hotels, I would always stay in an apartment. Many come with a washer/dryer combination that allows you to pack less. There are many apartments for rent on the internet. One of my favorite rental agencies in Paris is Paris Left Bank Rentals. Check it out at www.parisleftbankrentals.com

Does it matter that Sarah Palin has rarely traveled outside of the US?

2008-09-10T14:13:00.000-05:00

(Photo courtesy of flickr.com J. Medkeff)

While McCain, Obama and Biden have traveled extensively outside the US, Sarah Palin has (according to the governor's Alaska spokeswoman) traveled only once outside of the US and Canada. In July 2007 she visited Alaskan National Guard troops in Kuwait and Iraq (with a stop in Germany). Palin first received a passport in 2006. Source: http://www.boston.com/news/nation/articles/2008/09/03/palin_not_well_traveled_outside_us/

Hotel Jazz Barcelona

2008-09-10T10:04:00.000-05:00

This modern hotel has a great location between La Rambla and the Eixample neighborhood, perfect for taking in the main sights of Barcelona. Rooms are clean, comfortable and quiet. There's a rooftop pool and an elegant bar. Highly recommended. Info: 3 Pelai. http://www.hoteljazz.com/. Tel. 935529697. V, MC. Bar, pool, satellite TV, A/C, telephone, minibar, hairdryer, in-room safe, WiFi. Metro: Universitat. Prices begin at 122 euros.

The dollar is getting stronger!

2008-09-08T21:36:00.000-05:00

The 15-nation euro continues to decline in value. This is certainly good news for those of us who are traveling to Europe. For the latest conversion rate or to convert a foreign currency to dollars, visit www.xe.com/ucc/

Favorite Barcelona Tapas

2008-09-05T13:24:00.000-05:00

We just returned from Barcelona where we checked out some great tapas bars. Head to the Drassanes metro stop at the southern end of La Rambla. All these eateries are near each other. Many are closed on Sunday.

Txikiteo at 7 Carrer de Josep Anselm Clavé. Take a look at the tapas on the long bar and take your pick with a glass of txakolí (a light and fruity Basque wine) while admiring the rustic stone, brick and timber walls. Sit at the bar. It’s more fun. Ask about the frequent specials (like a glass of wine and three tapas for €3).

Bodega la Plata at 28 Carrer de la Mercè. People have been coming here to sit at tiny tables or stand at the marble-topped bar since the 1920s. It has a beautiful terrazzo floor and Mediterranean-tile walls. Try the house specialty: sardinas (deep-fried sardines, head and all) and a small glass of the house wine served from barrels along the wall. (Some of you may need more to drink before you can stomach the sardine heads!)

Across the street is Tasca el Corral (the place with the cured meats and onions and garlic hanging from the ceiling). This is the place to share a bottle of sidra (alcoholic cider). Try it, but be careful: It’s stronger than it tastes. Notice how the waiter usually pours your drink with a grand gesture.

Las Cuevas del Sorte at number 2 Carrer d’en Gignàs. This funky bar with cave-like décor is just the place to have a glass of cava (Spanish sparkling wine). You’ve had lots to drink by now, so head (no pun intended) to the fantastic tiled restrooms here.

In the Poble Sec section of Barcelona (Metro: Paral.lel), you'll find Quimet y Quimet. You can stand around the stainless-steel counter and munch on a large selection of small sandwiches (montaditos) at this friendly, family-owned bar. The walls are completely covered with wine bottles and cans of specialty foods. Info: 25 Poeta Cabanyes. Tel. 934423142. Closed Sun.

Paris and Chocolate

2008-09-05T13:07:00.000-05:00

If you're interested in Paris and food (especially desserts), visit the blog of pastry chef David Lebovitz, author of Room For Dessert, Ripe For Dessert, The Great Book of Chocolate and The Perfect Scoop. I highly recommend it!

www.davidlebovitz.com/paris

Paris Budget Hotel

2008-09-05T12:58:00.001-05:00

I get a lot of requests for a recommendation for "cheap sleeps" in Paris. A new hostel has opened in the 13th arrondissement (south of the Latin Quarter). Oops! features bright wallpaper, hardwood floors and stark Scandinavian furniture. The price is about $50 per night for a private double room (even less for dorm space). See oops-paris.com

Europe Made Easy

2008-09-05T11:24:00.000-05:00

Welcome to my new blog. I've replaced the old message board and now all travel updates will be posted here.