Wining & Dining in Paris now available!

Wining and Dining in Paris was created for those of you who want to truly experience the extraordinary food and wine Paris has to offer. We’ve included Paris’s best restaurants, wine bars, wine shops, cafes, bistros, champagne bars and food markets – and even a few cooking classes! – all arranged by arrondissement to make your wining and dining decisions a snap.

A brief section introduces readers to the Parisian restaurant scene, French wines by region, and select culinary and wine terms. The rest of the book is arranged by district (arrondissement) for ease of use, and each arrondissement section will offer a map followed by top restaurant picks (not just high-end gourmet, but also great meals at more moderate prices), wine bars, cafes, and wine shops (including organic wine shops).

• 139 restaurants, wine bars, wine shops and more
• 43 maps, lots of beautiful illustrations
• Essential French phrases
• Tips on budget dining, historic restaurants, types of eating
establishments, and mealtimes
• Ten Simple Rules of Dining Out in Paris
• A region-by-region look at French wine

From the author of Eating & Drinking in Paris: French Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide and Open Road's Best of Paris.

The Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum) in Paris will finally reopen.

The Musée Picasso (Picasso Museum) in Paris is finally set to reopen. The museum will reopen in June 2014 after a renovation that took five years and cost 52 million euros.  The museum has the largest collection of the works of Spanish artist Pablo Picasso (not to mention works by Renoir, Cézanne, Degas and Matisse). The renovation allows the museum to showcase more of the 5,000 works by the artist. Don't miss it the next time you visit Paris. 

Info: 3^rd/Métro St-Sébastien or St-Paul. 5 rue de Thorigny (in the Marais).  

Bercy Village in Paris: Off-the-Beaten-Track Shopping and Dining

Bercy Village: A French village in the heart of Paris. This off-the-beaten-track "village" is located in the 12th arrondissement. Small wine warehouses from the late 19th century have been converted into stylish shops and restaurants. A great place to get away from touristy Paris. In the 12th arrondissement. Near the Seine River and adjoining the Park Bercy. Take the métro to Cour Saint-Émilion on line 14.

Exploring Quirky Paris

Exploring Quirky Paris

Paris has some of the world’s best-known sights. It also has some of the oddest. So here are your choices, broken down into categories: Crap, Dead Stuff, Medicine and Animals. Enjoy!.

Crap:

Les Egouts (The Sewers)

Why would you want to visit the sewers of Paris? Many do, despite the smell (especially bad in summer). You can visit the huge underground passages in the bowels of the city (no pun intended), a museum, and view a film. Info: 7th/Métro Alma-Marceau. Pont de l’Alma (opposite 93 quai d’Orsay). Tel. 01/53.68.27.81. Open 11am-4pm (May-Sep until 5pm). Closed Thu, Fri and part of Jan. Admission: €4.20, €3.40 ages 6-16, under 5 free. See Eiffel Tower Area Map.

Dead Stuff:

Les Catacombes

Grim, strange and claustrophobic. Beginning in the late 1700s, six million people were deposited in what used to be stone quarries. It gets even creepier. The bones are arranged in patterns. Not for everyone. Info: 14th/Métro Denfert-Rochereau. 1 place Denfert-Rochereau. Tel. 01/43.22.47.63. Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Closed Mon. Admission: €8, under 13 free. See Montparnasse Map.

Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse

(Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal)

Catherine Labouré was a young nun when she claimed that the Virgin Mary, dressed in a white silk dress, visited her (four times in 1827) to deliver a design for a holy medal. Go figure! Catherine’s body is here in a glass cage. The spot where the Virgin Mary is said to have sat during her visits is a place of veneration. You can buy a rosary or medal in the courtyard (they actually have a machine that dispenses these souvenirs). Another glass cage holds the body of St. Louise de Marillac (one of the founders of the Daughters of Charity). St. Louise is still wearing her habit. Info: 7th/Métro Sèvres-Babylone. 140 rue du Bac. Open daily 7:45am-1pm and 2:30pm-7pm (Tue 7:45am-7pm). Admission: Free.

Around the corner is La Congrégation de la Mission (Congregation of the Mission). Here, the waxed corpse of St. Vincent de Paul (known for his charity) is found in an ornate glass-and-silver casket above the main altar. If you like this sort of macabre stuff, you can climb the stairs and get a close-up view of his body. Info: 7th/Métro Sèvres-Babylone. 95 rue de Sèvres. Open daily. Admission: Free. See Eiffel Tower Area Map.

Medicine:

Musée d’Histoire de la Médecine (Museum of Medical History)

Yikes! You can see implements used for skull drilling in this 100-year-old museum dedicated to medical history. The implements used to perform Napoléon’s autopsy are here, too. Info: 6th/Métro Odéon. 12 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine. In the René Descartes University (second floor). Tel. 01/76.53.16.93. Open Sep-July 15 2pm-5:30pm except Thu and Sun, July 15-Aug 2pm-5pm except Sat and Sun. Admission: €3.50. See Left Bank Map.

Musée d'Anatomie Delmas-Orfila-Rouvière (Anatomy Museum)

Formaldehyde jars with Siamese twins and deformed body parts, wax models of anuses and skinned faces, and the mummified bodies of a whole family are some of the horrid exhibits that greet you in the eighth-floor lobby of this university. Fun! Info: 6th/Métro St-Germain-des-Prés. 45 rue des Sts-Pères. (in the René Descartes Université). Tel. 01/42.86.20.47 (by appointment only). Open hours vary, usually Tue and Thu 2pm-5pm. Admission: Free. See Left Bank Map.

Musée de l’Assistance Publique - Hôpitaux de Paris

(Museum of Public Assistance and Hospitals).

Interested in exhibits on infanticide or “historic” blood-covered uniforms? If so, this museum is right up your alley! The 17th-century mansion used to be a pharmacy. Info: 5th/Métro Maubert-Mutualité. 47 quai de la Tournelle. Tel. 01/40.27.50.05. Open Tue, Wed, Fri, and first Sun of each month 10am-6pm. Closed Aug. Admission: €6, under 13 free. See Left Bank Map.

Animals:

For the truly adventurous, you can head out of Paris to one of these sights:

Musée Fragonard d’Alfort (Veterinary Museum)

Ugh! Animal skeletons, skinned cats, a camel’s stomach and a partially flayed 200-year-old horse and its rider are just some of the rather grim exhibits at this veterinary school’s museum. Info: Métro Alfort - École Vétérinaire (line 8). In the suburb of Maisons-Alfort/Métro Alfort-École Vétérinaire. Located in the National Veterinary School. E-mail musee@vet-alfort.fr to confirm that the museum will be open). Open Wed and Thu 2pm-6pm and Sat and Sun 1pm-6pm. Closed Aug. Admission: €7, under 26 free. www.musee-vet-alfort.fr.

Cimetière des Chiens (Dog Cemetery)

The French love their dogs (and cats) so much that they have an entire cemetery with some elaborate memorials to countless poodles and even Rin Tin Tin. How totally French! Info: In the Asnières-sur-Siene suburb/Métro Mairie de Clichy (line 13). A 15-minute walk from métro on rue Martre, left at end of the bridge Pont de Clichy. Located along the river. 4 Pont de Clichy. Tel. 01/40.86.21.11. Open Mar 16-Oct 15 10am-6pm, Oct 16-Mar 15 10am-4:30pm. Closed Mon. Admission: €3.50, under 6 free.

For more on exploring Paris, check out Open Road's Best of Paris.

Paris Restaurants: L'Ange 20

Here is the first in a series of new restaurants in Paris that will be featured in the new edition of Eating & Drinking in Paris (to be released Spring 2013).

L’Ange 20

Don't miss this small, intimate restaurant in the heart of the Marais near the Centre Pompidou. Friendly, efficient, and attentive service. You can watch the chef in the open kitchen. Lively mix of tourists and Parisians enjoying reasonably priced meals. Try the excellent agneau façon sept heures (lamb cooked for seven hours). Unbelievable what the chef turns out in this small kitchen. Info: 4th/Métro Rambuteau. 8 rue Geoffroy L’Angevin (off of rue Beaubourg). Tel. 01/40.27.93.67. No lunch. Closed Mon.

www.lange20.com.  

The best view in Paris (Montparnasse Tower).

For the best view in Paris, head to the Tour Montparnasse (Montparnasse Tower). This unfortunate 1970s black glass tower that dominates its Left Bank neighbors has an observation deck. Take the elevator to the 56th floor and then steps to the roof. The elevator ride to the top takes just 38 seconds (Europe's fastest).

There was such outrage after this tower was built that an ordinance was passed prohibiting further towers in the city center. The best thing about the great view is that you can’t see this tower! Info: 15^th/Métro Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. Open daily Apr-Sep 9:30am-11:30pm, Oct-Mar 9:30am-10:30pm. Last ascension a half-hour before closing. Admission: €13.

Photo of the week

Vernazza (pictured here) is one of the Cinque Terre, five beautiful towns perched on dramatic cliffs above the sea. For dining tips in Vernazza and the Cinque Terre, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy.

Tips on tipping in France.

The most frequent question I am asked about dining in France is "What about tipping?"

Here are the basics:

You are not required to tip. A 15% service fee is automatically included in all bars,  cafés, and restaurants. Servers in France do not live off of tips. They get paid vacations, health care, and living wages.

A service charge is almost always added to your bill. Depending on the service, it’s sometimes appropriate to leave an additional 5 to 10%. The menu will usually note that service is included (service compris). Sometimes this is abbreviated with the letters s.c. The letters s.n.c. stand for service non compris; this means that the service is not included in the price, and you must leave a tip. You’ll sometimes find couvert or cover charge on your menu (a small charge just for placing your butt at the table). 

Don’t ever call the waiter “garçon.” Though sometimes in bars a Parisian will use this word, travelers should never use it.

Ordering a taxi in Paris just got easier.

G7 taxi (which has good service in general) has an online app for ordering a taxi, whether immediately or in advance. 

http://www.taxisg7.com/reservation-taxi-internet-mobile-iphone?tg7=5cd444ddf27570dae71038a93b06754e

(Click on the "Discover the iPhone application" button for a video - you can even choose a "green" taxi or a "low floor" taxi, etc.) If you order a taxi for immediate pickup, the app will tell you how long it will be before your taxi arrives.

G7 is now also offering shared taxi rides to and from the airport for a discount price. 

Paris News: Museum update/Using the Metro

The Louvre


The Louvre's pre-Classical Greek section will reopen in late 2012. The new wing featuring Islamic art will open this summer.  


Musee Picasso


The Picasso Museum will remain closed for renovation through at least the summer of 2013. 

Musee d'Orsay

The top-floor Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collection has reopened.

The metro (subway)

Metro stations with ticket windows are being phased out and replaced by ticket machines. Remember that most U.S. credit cards don't work in these machines, so make sure that you have small bills (20 euros or less) and coins to use in the machines.

Europe's Best Walks (ebook)

Open Road Publishing has released a new ebook "Europe's Best Walks." The book includes detailed walking tours with color maps and photos of Madrid, Barcelona, Provence, Paris, Amsterdam, and Berlin (by Andy Herbach). Additional walks are included in London and Rome (by other Open Road authors). Here's the link to the Kindle version:

http://www.amazon.com/Europes-Walks-Travel-Guides-ebook/dp/B005FY64VU/ref=sr_1_3?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1330010062&sr=1-3

Best cities in the world for students.

Berlin has been named one of the best cities for students. Berlin ranked eighth in the world because of its low cost of living. A high number of courses offered by the city’s universities are taught in English. In 2011, 13,500 of the 84,000 students in Berlin were from abroad. On average, students were found to be paying thousands less per year in comparison to students in other top ten cities. Here are the other (more expensive) cities for students:
Paris
London
Boston
Melbourne
Vienna
Sydney
Zurich

The study was conducted by Quacquarelli Symonds (QS), a British education services specialist.

Paris cinemas: La Pagode

On the Left Bank, you'll find one of the most interesting cinemas in Europe. La Pagode is a Japanese-style building surrounded by an oriental garden. In 1895, the director of the large department store Bon Marche' had this structure built for his wife. In 1931, it was converted into a cinema. The ornate Japanese room is a great place to take in a film. info: 7th arrondissement, 57b rue Babylone.

Shakespeare and Company bookstore

This famous bookstore is named after the publishing house that first released James Joyce’s Ulysses. Hemingway and Fitzgerald were patrons. It’s a favorite hangout for expatriates from English-speaking countries. George Whitman, who died this week, ran the Paris bookstore for decades. His daughter will continue to operate the store. It's just across the river from Notre-Dame, so next time you're in Paris, stop in and soak up some history.

Info: 5th/Métro St-Michel. 37 rue de la Bûcherie. Tel. 01/43.25.40.93. Open daily noon to midnight.

Paris shop windows!

Paris has some great displays in shop windows. Here's a shop selling mannequins and another selling interesting purses!

Paris Wine Tastings (in English)

What would a trip to Paris be without wine? Try one of these wine tastings (in English). A great experience!

Monday through Saturday at Ô Chateau: You can try either the Paris Pass Tasting (30€) or the Grand Crus Tasting (120€). 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in the 1st arrondissement.

Every Thursday at Spring Boutique: wine tasting (six wines with cheese and charcuterie) for 60€. 4pm to 5:30pm at 52 rue de l’Arbre Sec in the 1st arrondissement.

The Passages of Paris

In the 1800s, there were 137 glass-roofed shopping arcades (passages) in Paris. Only 24 remain. The oldest, dating back to 1800, is Passage des Panoramas, 11 blvd. Montmartre (known for its stamps). Nearby are Passage Verdeau, 4-6 rue de la Grange Batelière, and Passage Jouffroy, 12 blvd. Montmartre. Info: 2^nd/Métro Grands Boulevards 

Passages are luminous and practical. The glass roofs not only admit light, but shelter shoppers from rain. 

My favorite passage is in the Passage du Grand Cerf in the 2nd near rue Montorgueil (pictured here). For more information, check out  http://www.passagedugrandcerf.com

Paris Restaurants: Fall 2011 (La Grille)

Here's the first installment of our annual fall Paris restaurant update. If you look closely, you'll see an Eating & Drinking in Paris sticker in the window of a Paris restaurant in the photo below.

It's interesting to go off the beaten path to look for a new dining experience. The name of La Grille comes from the 200-year-old wrought-iron grills in front of the restaurant. For years, this small and intimate restaurant (in the 10th arrondissement) was run by M. and Mme. Cullérre. Under their ownership, the restaurant became known for the turbot prepared with an emulsified white-butter sauce. The new owners have kept this delicious dish and you'll find an excellent boeuf bourguignon à la ancienne (braised beef in a red-wine sauce) on the menu (pictured above). For starters, try the frisé aux lardons (curly endive salad with diced bacons).  Main courses will run you from 17 to 66 euro (the turbot prepared for two). Under the former owners, you were surrounded by a rather eccentric collection of lace and dolls. The dolls are gone, and the staff will assist you in ordering even if you don't speak French. Definitely worth the trip. Special thanks to our Parisian friend Patrick for taking us to this hidden gem.

La Grille
10th arrondissement
80 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière.
Tel. 01/47.70.89.73
Métro  Poissonnière
Closed Sun.

Paris: A Day of Free Museums and Sights

Two of the best free museums in Paris are located near each other. You can easily visit both of them in a day. Note that all the museums on this day plan are closed on Monday.

Many of the museums in Paris are free (and crowded) the first Sunday of the month, including the Louvre and the Picasso Museum.

Take the métro to the St-Paul stop. This stop is where rue de Rivoli ends and rue St-Antoine begins. All along these streets are typical cafés where you can have coffee or breakfast before you begin visiting the museums. If you’re looking to save money, standing at the counter in a café (or bar) is cheaper than sitting down.

Now let’s head to our first free museum: The Musée Carnavalet-Histoire de Paris (pictured above). In the 1700s, the Hôtel Carnavalet was presided over by Madame de Sévigné who chronicled French society in hundreds of letters written to her daughter. I went kicking and screaming into this museum as it sounded so very boring. I was wrong. You’ll find antiques, portraits, and artifacts dating back to the late 1700s. The section on the French Revolution with its guillotines is especially interesting, as is the royal bedroom. There are exhibits across the courtyard at the Hôtel le Peletier de St-Fargeau. Truly an interesting museum of the history of Paris. Info: 3rd/Métro St-Paul. 23 rue de Sévigné. Tel. 01/44.59.58.58. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Permanent collection is free. €7 for exhibits. http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/.


Just a street away is another free museum. The Musée Cognacq-Jay, located in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant mansion, houses the 18th-century art and furniture owned by Ernest Cognacq, the founder of La Samaritaine department store. Cognacq once bragged that he was not a lover of art and that he had never visited the Louvre. Perhaps it was his wife, Louise Jay, who had the sense to compile such an amazing art collection, including works by Rembrandt, Fragonard and Boucher. Info: 3rd/Métro St-Paul. 8 rue Elzévir. Tel. 01/40.27.07.21. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Free.

If you’re up to another free museum, head to métro Monceau.

On the edge of beautiful Parc Monceau (photo above) is the Musée Cernuschi. Cernuschi was a banker from Milan who bequeathed his lovely home and incredible collection of Asian art to the city. A must for Asian-art aficionados. There’s also a collection of Persian bronze objects. Explanatory map and notes are in English. Info: 8th/Métro Monceau. 7 avenue Vélasquez. Tel. 01/53.96.21.50. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Mon. Admission: Free. http://www.cernuschi.paris.fr/.

End your day by heading to the Seine River. Walk along the river, taking in the elegantly lit Notre-Dame and the stunning beauty of this amazing city. And, the view is free!

For more information, maps and photos in Open Road's Best of Paris by Andy Herbach available at http://www.eatndrink.com/.

France's new food festival.

France'e new Fête de la Gastronomie is a new one-day celebration of food. More than 47,000 restaurants have joined the celebration. Events include free soup at greenmarkets throughout the country, a culinary treasure hunt in Paris, and an outdoor banquet in Avignon.

Check out the website (in English) at www.fete-gastronomie.fr/en/ for a list of events.