Recreational Drugs and Tourism: Amsterdam's Coffeeshops

Recreational drugs are a big part of Amsterdam’s appeal to some tourists. Coffeeshops are not cafés. You drink coffee, smoke cigarettes and have a snack at a café. You buy and smoke marijuana at a coffeeshop. How can you tell the difference? Other than the telltale smell, most coffeeshops display a Rastafarian flag (red, yellow and green). Sanctioned shops display a sticker that says “Coffeeshop BCD.” Marijuana is sold openly in Amsterdam (although it and all hard drugs remain illegal). About 250 cafés are licensed to sell a maximum of 5 grams per adult. Coffeeshops feature lists of types of marijuana, hashish and stickie (a hashish joint rolled with tobacco) from which to choose. It’s taxed and regulated. Some shops even have delivery service! They sell cakes, muffins, brownies and chocolates made with hash or marijuana with names like “space cakes” or “space sweets.” Don’t smoke pot on the street as it’s considered rude. Never buy drugs from street dealers, and if you choose to partake in the drugs available at these shops, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. There are many locations of Bulldog, said to be the oldest coffeeshop in the city (www.bulldog.nl).

Top Ten Rules of Dining in Paris (#6-#10)

6. Parisians dine leisurely.  Don’t expect to get the same speed of service as at home. For the French, dinner is nearly a ritual. In its full-blown form, it begins with an apéritif. This is often accompanied by an amuse-gueule, a little snack of some sort. After this, you order an hors-d’oeuvre. Then comes an entrée, which is a first course –  pâté or a composed salad, such as a salad with shrimp or hard-boiled eggs – and then the main course which will most likely be meat or fish. The main course is sometimes accompanied by or followed by a salad, but it is a simple green salad. After this, just when you think you’re going to explode and have secretly unbuckled your belt, the serveur arrives with selections from the cheese platter that are followed by dessert, and, finally, coffee. But if you do not want to follow the French protocol, don’t. Even if the waiter seems to disapprove, do what you like. 

7. Don’t talk loudly.  You will notice that the French speak softly, Americans don’t; we just can’t help it. But believe us: Those loud voices coupled with running shoes, backpacks, “fanny packs,” large, conspicuous guide books and cameras are like wearing a neon sign announcing that you are a tourist, an American tourist.

8. Stand your ground without being aggressive.  In the years we’ve been traveling, it seems that waiters have become more relaxed about the rituals of eating, and will accommodate you if you insist on what you want – within reason, of course.

9. Visit a street vendor at least once in Paris. Whether it’s sandwiches, hot dogs or crêpes, Parisian street vendors sell delicious “food on the run.” Do yourself a favor, and sample some.

10. Always be courteous. Remember that you are a guest in their country. There are simple things that the French do that we don’t, like excusing yourself or saying please all the time. 

S’il vous plaît (seel voo play) after nearly everything is a safe way to be very polite. Seriously. A polite Parisian ALWAYS finishes a greeting (such as bonjour – hello) or affirmation (such as oui – yes) with a title. Thus, bonjour is always bonjour, madame or m’sieur and yes or no is always oui, m’sieur or madame. And just so you know, you say bonjour, which is essentially hello, all day and night. 

Bonsoir – good evening –  is reserved for leaving and after 7:00 p.m., and bonne nuit – good night – is only used when you are actually on your way to bed.

Top 10 Rules of Dining in Paris (#1-#5)

1. Avoid eating in a restaurant that has a menu written in English. In case you haven’t gathered, we’re against them for a number of reasons. One good reason is that at one restaurant, we were automatically given the English menu (which is really irritating, since we hate being so obviously American) and we discovered as we walked out that it bore no relationship to the French menu which was more than twice as long. 

2. Don’t be afraid. They can’t and won’t hurt you.  They are not laughing at you, they don’t dislike you, they aren’t even thinking about you. Waiters in France are trained professionals whose job is to serve you. Despite what you’ve heard, they want you to have a good time. Sometimes they are just mystified by what we do.

3. Don’t ever call the waiter “garçon.” Though sometimes in bars a Parisian will use this word, travelers should never use it.

4. Try to make reservations.  This isn’t as difficult as it seems; the words are similar in both languages and they’ll get the gist of what you’re trying to do. We often do a walk-by in the afternoon and stop in to make the reservation. When we go back that night they are almost always happy to see us again.

5. Return to a restaurant if you like it.  If you have the luxury of time and can withstand the temptation to try other restaurants, you will always be treated better if they recognize you. Few travelers return to the same restaurant.

The best chocolates in Paris?

Patrick Roger's friendly shop on the boulevard St-Germain-des-Prés has excellent chocolates packaged in green boxes that make great gifts and are easy to pack to take home. A sachet of 4 or 5 chocolate confections costs under 5€ (about $7.50). Are they the best chocolates in Paris? You decide!


Patrick Roger 
6th/Métro Odéon
108 boulevard St-Germain-des-Prés
Tel. 01/43.29.38.42
Closed Sun and Mon
www.patrickroger.com

Paris Restaurant Update: Fall and Winter 2009

I wasn't sure what to expect on our recent visit to Chez Janou. It's been described as "trendy" and since it was featured in Samantha Brown's Passport to Europe television show, I was afraid that it would be loaded with tourists. Well, there were only a few tourists in the bistro and I certainly wouldn't call it "trendy." This old fashioned bistro is located a few blocks from the beautiful place des Vosges in the Marais. It seems like everyone is having a great time in this vibrant, compact eatery. The food is Provencal and straightforward French (very good entrecôte). The wine list offered decent priced wines with a heavy emphasis on those from Provence. The highlight of the dinner was dessert (pictured above). A bowl of chocolate mousse is brought to the table and dished out. Delicious! The bistro is known for its large selection of pastis (anise-flavored aperitif). Very friendly service.

Chez Janou
3rd/Métro Chemin Vert
2 rue Roger Verlomme
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Tel. 01/42.72.28.41
www.chezjanou.com


Le Reminet (pictured above) has been in Eating & Drinking in Paris for the last several editions. This quaint bistro is located in the Latin Quarter near St-Michel and just across the river from Notre-Dame. We were a party of six, which in such a small place can always be a challenge. The staff was helpful and pleasant and the romantic atmosphere (down to candelabras on the tables) made for a wonderful evening. We all started with a kir royal (an aperitif made with champagne and creme de cassis). Most of us had a green salad (it wasn't on the menu, but most restaurant are happy to make one up). Good wine list featuring wines from all French regions. The food was excellent. Some of the choices were:
picatta de veau (veal picatta)
joue de cochon (pork cheeks)
pot-au-feu (a stew of meat and vegetables).

Le Reminet
5th/Métro St-Michel
3 rue Grands Degrés
Open daily for lunch and dinner
Tel. 01/44.07.04.24

As reported last winter, La Maison in the 5th (just around the corner from Le Reminet) has been purchased by new owners. Claude, the fun and interesting former owner, and his French bulldog "Polo" have retired. Sadly, most of the charm of the former La Maison is gone and we can't recommend its replacement.


Aux Trois Petits Cochons is a lively, friendly and gay (in every sense of the word) bistro in the Montorgueil quarter. If available, make sure you try the excellent blanquette de veau (veal stew). I started my meal with the delicious pumpkin soup (highly recommended). Always a good time and always a great meal. For photos about this restaurant, see the blog entry just before this one.

Aux Trois Petits Cochons
2nd/Metro Etienne Marcel
31 rue Tiquetonne
Tel. 01/42.33.39.69
Open daily. No lunch
http://www.auxtroispetitscochons.fr/

Cafe Beaubourg overlooks the Pompidou Center (housing a modern art collection). It's getting just a little run down, but it's always fun and there's great people watching. It wasn't as crowded this November because there was a temporary strike which closed the Pompidou Center, so there were fewer people around the area. Still, a great place for a snack and drink.

Paris Museum Strike Spreads

It started at the Pompidou Center (the modern art museum pictured above) and has now spread to the Louvre, Versailles, the Arc de Triomphe, the Rodin Museum and Musée d'Orsay. Museum works are protesting government plans to cut the number of museum employees.


While in Paris this week, an announcement in English said "The Pompidou Center is closed today because of a strike. Thanks for listening."

A great way to end your day in Paris: Cafe Marly

After dinner, head to Café Marly at 93 rue de Rivoli (1^st/Métro Palais Royal-Musée d’Orsay). You’ll pay for the view overlooking the glass-pyramid entrance to the Louvre, but it’s a great place to end your first day in Paris with a glass of champagne. How French! Info: 93 rue de Rivoli. Tel. 01/49.26.06.60. Open daily 8am to 2am.