Fall/Winter 2010 Paris Restaurant Update

The new edition of Eating & Drinking in Paris (the 5th edition, but really it's the 6th as the first edition was called Eating & Drinking in France), will be released before the summer tourist season. As you can imagine, there's lots of "research" required for the new edition.

A few long-time favorites are gone since the last edition. La Maison and Au Gamin de Paris have closed their doors. Both of these restaurants have been in the guide since early editions. Au Gamin de Paris is now a clothing store, a sign of the times in the increasingly expensive Marais. Also gone from the new edition will be Procope. It's always been way too touristy, but the food has really declined. Spicy is also out. It's now called Villa Spicy, but the name change can't save it from being what it now has turned into- a tourist trap. Vin Sur Vin (in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower) may still have a fantastic wine list and decent food, but its prices simply aren't worth it. You can find other similar dining experiences in Paris for a lot less.

New to the next edition are the wonderful La Veraison in the 15th (see my Fall/Winter 2009 blog), Petit Prince (which continues to be a joy and pleasant dining experience), and Chez Janou (always very much fun). Here are a few other new entries or places worth trying:

Spring
Who would have thought that a Chicago-born chef would be creating the biggest buzz in Paris dining? Daniel Rose has moved from his tiny restaurant into a modern, sleek space near the Louvre. Reserve well in advance to dine here and if you're fortunate enough to get a seat at the counter overlooking the open kichen, you'll have the dining experience of a lifetime. The menu changes daily and you'll be served what everyone else is having. A delicious experience that you won't soon forget. A typical menu du jour includes an amuse-bouche, a starter, a main course, cheese course, and desserts. Interesting wine list. At the end of the street is the companion food and wine store featuring French specialties and wine tastings.

www.springparis.fr
1st/Metro Louvre-Rivoli
6 rue Bailleul
Tel. 01/45.96.05.72
Open dinner Tue.-Sat. Lunch Wed-Fri.
Reservations required.
Boutique:
52 rue de l'Arbre Sec
Tel. 01/58.62.44.30
Open Tue.-Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm - 9pm, Sat 11am-8pm.

The details:
Bottle of Catherine & Pierre Bretton 2007 Chinon Saint Louans (42 euros)
Greens in a mild horseradish sauce topped with caviar.
Normandy scallop on top of a smoked chestnut puree (crème de marrons) sprinkled with fried chestnut chips.
Sauteed brussel sprouts, root vegetables, foie gras d'oie (fattened goose liver), grilled halibut, topped with fried chard (blette), quenched with consommé.
A cutting of cheeses at your table (roquefort, chèvre, cantal, camembert).
Fresh pear dessert.
A glass of Vin d'Alsace, Herrenweg de Turchheim Degewurtraminer (10 euros a glass)
A dollup of thick crème au chocolat drizzled with caramel and crème anglaise.
Lunch (without drinks) was 38 euros per person.

Le Taxi Jaune
You'll find the intimate "Yellow Taxi" on a backstreet in the Marais. The menu changes regularly and although it often includes offal and horse (cheval), there are plenty of other choices. Service is friendly, unobtrusive, and unhurried. Try the pumpkin and vegetable soup when available. If you're looking for a relaxing dining experience in the Marais, you've found the place.

3rd/Métro Arts-et-Méiters
13 rue Chapon
Tel. 01/42.76.00.40
Closed Sat. & Sun.

Frascati
Sometimes you're walking around Paris and just want to pop into a place for dinner. We stumbled on the tiny, warm (it was very cold outside as Europe was experiencing quite a cold spell), and comfortable Frascati. Specializing in Italian cuisine, we selected an inexpensive bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and dined on escalope de veau (veal scallop) and ravioli in a gorgonzola sauce.

4th/Métro Rambeuteau
47 rue du Temple
Tel. 01/42.71.06.11
Closed Sun. and Mon.

 

Monet showcased in Paris.

The Grand Palais (near the Champs-Elysées) in Paris is hosting an exhibition of Monet's works. The exhibition runs until January 24th. You'll see 200 works contributed by museums from around the world . What you won't see is the work that game Impressionism its name, the “Impression, Soleil Levant” ("Impression, Sunrise"). This famous painting remains at the Musee Marmottan in Paris (which is definitely worth the trip).

Summer in Paris: Paris-Plage

Sunbathe, drink and celebrate the Seine River at Paris-Plage. Hundreds of deck chairs, umbrellas, cabanas and even palm trees are all brought to the Right Bank of the river from Pont de Sully to Pont Neuf. You can enjoy the sun, have a drink or two and a snack. No, I don’t recommend that you swim in the Seine. In the evening, musicians play along the river.

A day in Bologna, the gastronomic capital of Italy.

Bologna is the gastronomic capital of Italy. Often overlooked, this university town is a must for food lovers. Bologna is easily reached from Milan by high-speed train (only 52 minutes). You're dropped off at the train station and make your way to the heart of the town (Piazza Maggiore, home of the Neptune Fountain). On our day in Bologna, we made four favorite "foodie" stops. The train station and Piazza Maggiore are connected by the Via Indipendenza.

Just off of Via Indipendenza at Via Marsala is Enoteca Italiana. This wine and food shop is packed with wines from throughout Italy and Italian food specialties. A great place to stock up on gifts to take home, for a picnic, or some great snacks to eat in your hotel.

Here are three great places to dine near Piazza Maggiore:

Our absolute favorite is Drogheria della Rosa at 10 Via Cartoleria (Tel. 051/222529, http://www.drogheriadellarosa.it/, closed Sun.). This friendly trattoria has an extensive wine cellar and is located in a former pharmacy. We had our best Italian lunch ever. Two highly recommended dishes are the lasagne bolognese (pictured here - too bad Karl ate most of it before I could snap a photo!) and the tortelli in a butter and sage sauce with zucchini flowers. Fantastic!

Next door at 12 Via Cartoleria (Tel. 051/226315, http://www.godotwine.it/, closed Sun) is Godot Wine Bar. This modern and stylish wine bar serves pasta dishes and and snacks. It also has a large wine list. Both Drogheria and Godot have outdoor seating in front of the restaurants.

For more elegant dining, try Da Cesari at 8 Via de' Carbonesi (south of Piazza Maggiore). This romantic restaurant serves delicious Bolognese dishes and homemade wine. Tel. 051/237710, closed Sun. and Sat. in July. http://www.da-cesari.it/.

Note that all of these establishments are closed for part of August. You won't regret a trip to this lovely town. For more on dining in Italy, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Translator and Restaurant Guide.

The best baguette in Paris.

A Senegal-born baker at Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses in the Montmartre (38 Rue des Abbesses) has won a contest for the best baguette. Djibril Bodian, the son of a baker, moved to France when he was six. Baguettes are an important and delicious part of every day life in Paris. More than 160 baguettes were judged in The Grand Prix de la Baguette. Makes me want to go to Paris and bite into a crispy baguette!

A Madrid Tapas Walk

Our tapas walk begins at the Plaza Santa Ana. This pleasant square is located in one of Madrid’s oldest neighborhoods. This is where many Madrileños congregate on weekend evenings. In addition to the Teatro Español, the square is also home to the stately Hotel Reina Victoria, which has been recently renovated.

On the south side of the square are three places you can visit.

At number 6 is Cervecería Alemana, the best of the many tapas bars on the square, which was built in 1904 and modeled after a German beer hall (Alemana means “German” in Spanish). Have a beer. It’ll be served in a white stein. Ernest Hemingway drank here, but that’s really no big deal since he drank all over Madrid. Why don’t you order aceitunas (olives), a popular snack? You’ll be eating more later.

Another beer hall here is Cervecería Santa Ana at number 10. Here you can have a plate of jamón y queso (cured ham and cheese).

Another tapas spot here is La Moderna at number 12. Try a glass of delicious Spanish wine and a cheese plate, for which this place is known.

From the south side of the square, head across the square to the north side and turn right onto Calle de Manuel Fernández y González.

At number 7 is the popular bar Viva Madrid. It has fantastic tiled walls and an incredible carved ceiling. You come here to drink and, if you do stop, it’s likely that the crowd will be young and lively.

Keep moving, eating and drinking! With Viva Madrid to your back, head left down Calle de Manuel Fernández y González. You’ll pass Calle de Echegaray. The next street is Calle Ventura de la Vega. On the corner at 10-17 Calle de Manuel Fernández y González is our final stop.

At the tile bar Taberna Toscana, you’ll sit on stools and taste a wide selection of tapas under sausages hanging from the ceiling. Try the fantastic ternera (veal) dish swimming in a delicious sauce (with french fries). A specialty here (if you’re up to it) is morcilla (blood sausage). Try it. It’s an interesting choice. When in Spain…

For a map and more about tapas in Madrid, check out Open Road's Best of Spain by Andy Herbach.

Famous gourmet food store: Milan's "Peck"

Peck (www.peck.it) is Milan's famous gourmet food store. There's a huge wine cellar and the food store offers pasta and sauces, ham and cheeses, truffles and mushrooms, pasta and sauces, and oil and vinegar. You can sample these Italian specialties at the (usually crowded) stand-up bar. For more information on dining in Milan, check out "Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide."

Around the corner at 4 Via Victor Hugo is the renowned Cracco-Peck restaurant featuring a superb tasting menu. The prices at the restaurant may shock you, so you might want to try the less expensive wine bar nearby at 3 Via Cesare Cantu).

Best of Provence: Lourmarin

Lourmarin’s winding narrow streets are lined with stone houses painted in shades of ochre and beige. It has a Renaissance chapel and both Catholic and Protestant churches. The village lies at the foot of the Luberon Mountain range which is covered with pine and oak trees. Surrounding the village are olive groves and vineyards. Although French vacationers discovered this little village years ago, it’s now popular with foreign tourists. Its renovated château is the site of frequent concerts and exhibits. Visitors have quite a few cafés and restaurants to choose from, and it’s become the gastronomic capital of the area. It’s a lovely town with much to offer, and a great base for touring some of the prettiest towns of Provence. For more on Lourmarin, check out Open Road's Best of Provence and the French Riviera by Andy Herbach

Spring is here, at least in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam Tulip Days debuts on April 24. It's an effort to turn the entire city into a tulip garden. Bulbs have been planted in the gardens of museums, outside downtown buildings and at private homes. Many of these gardens are usually not accessible to the public. The project is a joint effort on the part of the Museum Van Loon, the International Flower Bulb Centre, the Tulip Museum, the city, and the Amsterdam Tourist and Convention Board. And, we'll be there to take it all in!

The Top Sights of Amsterdam

Here are our top sights of Amsterdam. What are yours?

Canals: From the Singel to the Prinsengracht, Amsterdam’s canals and the Golden Age homes that line them make Amsterdam a unique destination.


Begijnhof: The courtyard of this 14th-century hofje (almshouse) is a peaceful getaway from the bustling city.

Anne Frankhuis: Anne Frank’s hiding place, where she penned her famous diary, comes to life in this poignant museum.

Rijksmuseum: The Royal Museum is one of the world’s greatest art museums with masterpieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and countless others.

van Gogh Museum: A study of not only van Gogh’s art, but also his fascinating life.

Amsterdams Historisch Museum: Follow the history of Amsterdam from fishing village to modern metropolis.

Red-Light District: The oldest profession in the world sells itself (legally) in a new type of window-shopping.

Museum Amstelkring: Gorgeous clandestine church in, of all places, an attic.

Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art: One of the world’s most prestigious modern-art museums.

Coffeeshops: What’s that smell? It certainly isn’t coffee. Because of Amsterdam’s tolerant attitude to certain drugs, you’ll find them “served” in the city’s numerous coffeeshops.

Are 387 steps worth it?

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame in Paris is one of the greatest achievements of Gothic architecture. It’s so huge that it can accommodate over 6,000 visitors. The interior is dominated by three beautiful (and immense) rose windows, and has a 7,800-pipe organ. Inside along the walls are individual chapels dedicated to saints.The most famous chapel is that of Joan of Arc in the right transept. The treasury houses relics, manuscripts and religious garments. 

You may want to climb the 387 steps of the north tower for a grand view of Paris. You’ll also have a great view of the cathedral’s famous gargoyles. Info: 4^th/Métro Cité. 6 place du Parvis Notre-Dame. Tel. 01/42.34.56.10. Open daily 8am-6:45pm. Tower open daily Apr-June and Sep 9:30am-7:30pm, Jul and Aug 9am-7:30pm, Oct-Mar 10am-5:30pm. Admission: Free to the cathedral. Towers: €6, under 18 free. Treasury: €6.

The Shroud of Turin to be placed on display.

The Shroud of Turin is believed by some to be the burial cloth of Jesus Christ. Traditionally the Shroud is placed on display every 25 years at the cathedral in Turin, Italy. To help Turin's struggling economy, it will be placed on display from April 10 to May 23. Over one million people have already made reservations to see the shroud. 


Reservations can be made at:


http://www.sindone.org/the_holy_shroud__english_/00024122_The_Holy_Shroud.html


For information on dining in Turin and the rest of Italy, check out Eating & Drinking in Italy: Italian Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide.

Now you can visit the Eiffel Tower without the lines.

Want to visit the Eiffel Tower and not wait in line? The Eiffel Tower now takes online ticket reservations at
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/teiffel/uk/pratique/acces/page/tarifs.html?id=2_3


Or you can visit the Eiffel Tower after dinner (instead of during the day). The lines will be short, the view memorable, and the light show on the hour is spectacular. There’s no better way to end your day! Info: 7th/Métro Trocadéro, École Militaire or Bir-Hakeim. Champ de Mars. Tel. 01/44.11.23.23. Open daily.

Paris Catacombs Reopen

Paris' underground bone collection, the catacombs, had been closed to the public after being vandalized. It has now reopened.

The creepy collection of human remains — cleared from city cemeteries long ago — is orderly, with bones piled in stacks along underground tunnels. Vandalism last year changed all this with bones and skulls scattered along the walking paths.

The catacombs are a vast underground network tunnel of tunnels holding the bones of more than 6 million Parisians. Near the end of the 18th century, Paris' cemeteries were filled to capacity, so city officials decided to transfer the contents of graves to quarries.

The section open to the public is only a sampling of the secret world: More than 300 kilometers (186 miles) of tunnels like beneath the city. The catacombs are visited by 257,000 tourists each year, according to city historical officials.

For more on the catacombs and travel to Paris, check out Open Road's Best of Paris.

Recreational Drugs and Tourism: Amsterdam's Coffeeshops

Recreational drugs are a big part of Amsterdam’s appeal to some tourists. Coffeeshops are not cafés. You drink coffee, smoke cigarettes and have a snack at a café. You buy and smoke marijuana at a coffeeshop. How can you tell the difference? Other than the telltale smell, most coffeeshops display a Rastafarian flag (red, yellow and green). Sanctioned shops display a sticker that says “Coffeeshop BCD.” Marijuana is sold openly in Amsterdam (although it and all hard drugs remain illegal). About 250 cafés are licensed to sell a maximum of 5 grams per adult. Coffeeshops feature lists of types of marijuana, hashish and stickie (a hashish joint rolled with tobacco) from which to choose. It’s taxed and regulated. Some shops even have delivery service! They sell cakes, muffins, brownies and chocolates made with hash or marijuana with names like “space cakes” or “space sweets.” Don’t smoke pot on the street as it’s considered rude. Never buy drugs from street dealers, and if you choose to partake in the drugs available at these shops, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. There are many locations of Bulldog, said to be the oldest coffeeshop in the city (www.bulldog.nl).

Top Ten Rules of Dining in Paris (#6-#10)

6. Parisians dine leisurely.  Don’t expect to get the same speed of service as at home. For the French, dinner is nearly a ritual. In its full-blown form, it begins with an apéritif. This is often accompanied by an amuse-gueule, a little snack of some sort. After this, you order an hors-d’oeuvre. Then comes an entrée, which is a first course –  pâté or a composed salad, such as a salad with shrimp or hard-boiled eggs – and then the main course which will most likely be meat or fish. The main course is sometimes accompanied by or followed by a salad, but it is a simple green salad. After this, just when you think you’re going to explode and have secretly unbuckled your belt, the serveur arrives with selections from the cheese platter that are followed by dessert, and, finally, coffee. But if you do not want to follow the French protocol, don’t. Even if the waiter seems to disapprove, do what you like. 

7. Don’t talk loudly.  You will notice that the French speak softly, Americans don’t; we just can’t help it. But believe us: Those loud voices coupled with running shoes, backpacks, “fanny packs,” large, conspicuous guide books and cameras are like wearing a neon sign announcing that you are a tourist, an American tourist.

8. Stand your ground without being aggressive.  In the years we’ve been traveling, it seems that waiters have become more relaxed about the rituals of eating, and will accommodate you if you insist on what you want – within reason, of course.

9. Visit a street vendor at least once in Paris. Whether it’s sandwiches, hot dogs or crêpes, Parisian street vendors sell delicious “food on the run.” Do yourself a favor, and sample some.

10. Always be courteous. Remember that you are a guest in their country. There are simple things that the French do that we don’t, like excusing yourself or saying please all the time. 

S’il vous plaît (seel voo play) after nearly everything is a safe way to be very polite. Seriously. A polite Parisian ALWAYS finishes a greeting (such as bonjour – hello) or affirmation (such as oui – yes) with a title. Thus, bonjour is always bonjour, madame or m’sieur and yes or no is always oui, m’sieur or madame. And just so you know, you say bonjour, which is essentially hello, all day and night. 

Bonsoir – good evening –  is reserved for leaving and after 7:00 p.m., and bonne nuit – good night – is only used when you are actually on your way to bed.

Top 10 Rules of Dining in Paris (#1-#5)

1. Avoid eating in a restaurant that has a menu written in English. In case you haven’t gathered, we’re against them for a number of reasons. One good reason is that at one restaurant, we were automatically given the English menu (which is really irritating, since we hate being so obviously American) and we discovered as we walked out that it bore no relationship to the French menu which was more than twice as long. 

2. Don’t be afraid. They can’t and won’t hurt you.  They are not laughing at you, they don’t dislike you, they aren’t even thinking about you. Waiters in France are trained professionals whose job is to serve you. Despite what you’ve heard, they want you to have a good time. Sometimes they are just mystified by what we do.

3. Don’t ever call the waiter “garçon.” Though sometimes in bars a Parisian will use this word, travelers should never use it.

4. Try to make reservations.  This isn’t as difficult as it seems; the words are similar in both languages and they’ll get the gist of what you’re trying to do. We often do a walk-by in the afternoon and stop in to make the reservation. When we go back that night they are almost always happy to see us again.

5. Return to a restaurant if you like it.  If you have the luxury of time and can withstand the temptation to try other restaurants, you will always be treated better if they recognize you. Few travelers return to the same restaurant.