Cafe Marly at the Louvre in Paris

Cafe Marly at the Louvre in Paris
Relax with a glass of wine at Cafe Marly overlooking the pyramid entrance to the Louvre.

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Saturday, December 4, 2010

Fall/Winter 2010 Paris Restaurant Update

The new edition of Eating & Drinking in Paris (the 5th edition, but really it's the 6th as the first edition was called Eating & Drinking in France), will be released before the summer tourist season. As you can imagine, there's lots of "research" required for the new edition.

A few long-time favorites are gone since the last edition. La Maison and Au Gamin de Paris have closed their doors. Both of these restaurants have been in the guide since early editions. Au Gamin de Paris is now a clothing store, a sign of the times in the increasingly expensive Marais. Also gone from the new edition will be Procope. It's always been way too touristy, but the food has really declined. Spicy is also out. It's now called Villa Spicy, but the name change can't save it from being what it now has turned into- a tourist trap. Vin Sur Vin (in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower) may still have a fantastic wine list and decent food, but its prices simply aren't worth it. You can find other similar dining experiences in Paris for a lot less.

New to the next edition are the wonderful La Veraison in the 15th (see my Fall/Winter 2009 blog), Petit Prince (which continues to be a joy and pleasant dining experience), and Chez Janou (always very much fun). Here are a few other new entries or places worth trying:

Who would have thought that a Chicago-born chef would be creating the biggest buzz in Paris dining? Daniel Rose has moved from his tiny restaurant into a modern, sleek space near the Louvre. Reserve well in advance to dine here and if you're fortunate enough to get a seat at the counter overlooking the open kichen, you'll have the dining experience of a lifetime. The menu changes daily and you'll be served what everyone else is having. A delicious experience that you won't soon forget. A typical menu du jour includes an amuse-bouche, a starter, a main course, cheese course, and desserts. Interesting wine list. At the end of the street is the companion food and wine store featuring French specialties and wine tastings.
1st/Metro Louvre-Rivoli
6 rue Bailleul
Tel. 01/
Open dinner Tue.-Sat. Lunch Wed-Fri.
Reservations required.
52 rue de l'Arbre Sec
Tel. 01/
Open Tue.-Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm - 9pm, Sat 11am-8pm.

The details:
Bottle of Catherine & Pierre Bretton 2007 Chinon Saint Louans (42 euros)
Greens in a mild horseradish sauce topped with caviar.
Normandy scallop on top of a smoked chestnut puree (crème de marrons) sprinkled with fried chestnut chips.
Sauteed brussel sprouts, root vegetables, foie gras d'oie (fattened goose liver), grilled halibut, topped with fried chard (blette), quenched with consommé.
A cutting of cheeses at your table (roquefort, chèvre, cantal, camembert).
Fresh pear dessert.
A glass of Vin d'Alsace, Herrenweg de Turchheim Degewurtraminer (10 euros a glass)
A dollup of thick crème au chocolat drizzled with caramel and crème anglaise.
Lunch (without drinks) was 38 euros per person.

Le Taxi Jaune
You'll find the intimate "Yellow Taxi" on a backstreet in the Marais. The menu changes regularly and although it often includes offal and horse (cheval), there are plenty of other choices. Service is friendly, unobtrusive, and unhurried. Try the pumpkin and vegetable soup when available. If you're looking for a relaxing dining experience in the Marais, you've found the place.

3rd/Métro Arts-et-Méiters
13 rue Chapon
Tel. 01/
Closed Sat. & Sun.

Sometimes you're walking around Paris and just want to pop into a place for dinner. We stumbled on the tiny, warm (it was very cold outside as Europe was experiencing quite a cold spell), and comfortable Frascati. Specializing in Italian cuisine, we selected an inexpensive bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and dined on escalope de veau (veal scallop) and ravioli in a gorgonzola sauce.

4th/Métro Rambeuteau
47 rue du Temple
Tel. 01/
Closed Sun. and Mon.