Eating & Drinking in Paris: Bistrot de L’Oulette

We'll be taking a look at some old (and new) favorites on the Paris dining scene.

Bistrot de L’Oulette (formerly Baracane)

4th/Métro Bastille

38 rue des Tournelles

Tel. 01/42.71.43.33

Closed Sat. (lunch) & Sun.

www.l-oulette.com

Small bistro in the Marais (near the place des Vosges) featuring the specialties of Southwest France (especially confit).

Moderate

The last time we were there, we had a delicious meal and wonderful service. Although the prices are a bit higher than when this bistro was called "Baracane," the food is excellent and won't disappoint. The location is perfect for an after dinner drink at one of the many lively cafes around the place de la Bastille or the place des Vosges.

(Not) Running With The Bulls in Pamplona.

Pamplona hosts of one of the world’s most famous events: the encierro, or running of the bulls. Some say it’s barbaric, others say it’s a great tradition. At 8:00 a.m. July 6-14, six bulls are released to run the narrow streets to the bullring (where, by the way, they are killed at the bullfight that evening). In 1927, Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises made this event famous. The festival is the Fiesta de San Fermín and the city is swamped with revelers, many drunk and without hotel rooms (as there aren’t nearly enough to accommodate the crowds). Theft is common. It’s simply one non-stop party.

If you choose to visit at any other time of year, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by this tidy, attractive city. You’ll find ruins of a 16^th-century Ciudadela (citadel), a Gothic cathedral, and the Museo de Navarra showcasing art of the region. Pamplona’s main sights are all within walking distance in the historic Old Town.

The heart of the Old Town is the Plaza del Castillo. Check out the attractive Café Iruña at number 44. This square was the site of the former bullring. The current bullring, the Plaza de Toros, is only a few blocks from Plaza del Castillo.

Among the narrow streets around this square is Calle Estafeta, the main street for the running of the bulls and home to many tapas bars. For a break, try the restaurant/bar at Casa Otano at number 5 at nearby Calle San Nicolás. Another attractive square in the old town is the Plaza Consistorial where you’ll find the 18^th-century Ayuntamiento (City Hall) with its ornate façade.

Parts of the Catedral date back to the 14^th century. Its Gothic interior contains the alabaster tomb of Carlos III. Not to be missed are the Gothic arches of its cloister. Also here is the Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum) with a collection of religious art and artifacts. Info: At Calle Curia and Calle Dormitalería. Tel. 948210827. Cathedral open daily. Museum open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm and 4pm-7pm, Sat 10am-2pm. Admision to Cathedral: Free. Admission to Museum: €5.

Pamplona was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Navarra. The Museo de Navarra, located in a 16^th-century former hospital, houses a collection of regional archaeological artifacts, local costumes and art (including a portrait by Goya). Info: 47 Cuesta de Santo Domingo at Calle Jaranta. Tel. 948426492. Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and 5pm-7pm, Sun 10am-2pm. Admission: €4. 

For more on visiting Spain, check out Andy Herbach's Open Road's Best of Spain.

Don't take a taxi in Paris. Take the metro.

The métro system is clearly the best way to get around Paris. It’s orderly, inexpensive and for the most part safe. You’re rarely far from a métro station in Paris. They are marked by a yellow “M” in a circle or by those incredibly beautiful Art Nouveau archways with “Métropolitain” on them. Although you may be confused when you first look at a métro map, simply follow the line that your stop is on and note the last stop (the last stop appears on all the signs) and you’ll soon be scurrying about underground like a Parisian. Service starts at 5:20am and ends at 1:20am (one additional hour on Saturday night/Sunday mornings and the eve of holidays). Métro tickets are also valid on buses. The cost of a métro ticket is €1.70. A carnet of 10 tickets costs €11.70, and the price of a Passe Navigo (a week pass from Monday through Sunday) is €22.50.

The Best of Provence: Colorful Roussillon

Roussillon is 6 miles (10 km) east of Gordes/28 miles (45 km) east of Avignon.

Legend has it that a local lord had his wife’s lover killed and the wife threw herself off a cliff, staining the rocks with her blood. In reality, two centuries of ochre mining have left this perched village surrounded by red quarries and cliffs. From deep red to light yellow, the colors of this town alone are worth a visit. Although it can be quite crowded in high tourist season, you can still find peaceful, beautiful squares and take in the surrounding countryside.

While here, a good choice for both indoor and outdoor dining is the friendly Bistro de Roussillon, serving hearty Provençal fare. Moderate. Info: place de la Marine. Tel. 04/90.05.74.45. Closed Jan and mid-Nov to mid-Dec.

For more on Roussillon and Provence, check out Open Road's Best of Provence.

www.eatndrink.com

The Changing Face of Valencia, Spain

Valencia, Spain’s third-largest city, doesn’t fit easily into any tour of Spain (it’s over 200 miles from Barcelona and Madrid and 400 miles from the Costa del Sol). But if you’re able to visit, Valencia can be a truly Spanish experience. The real question is, “Can a complex change a city?” That’s what seems to be happening here. Like the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the futuristic Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències has created a domino effect of improvements. The 2007 America’s Cup has also spurred development along the city’s waterfront.

The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències (City of Arts and Sciences) is a major tourist attraction. Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava (who designed, among other things, Milwaukee’s fabulous lakefront art museum) designed this innovative, sprawling complex, which includes:

•L'Hemisferic (Hemispheric Planetarium) shaped like a floating eyeball that even blinks.

•L’Oceanogràphic (Oceanographic Park).

•Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe (Prince Philip Science Museum).

•Palau de les Arts (Palace of the Arts).

There’s also an IMAX Theater, marine habitat, amphitheater, indoor theater and music hall. Info: 7 Ave. Autovía del Saler. Tel. 022100031. www.cac.es. Museum open daily 10am-7pm (Jul to mid-Sep until 9pm). Oceanographic Park open daily 10am-6pm (Jul and Aug until midnight). Hemispheric Planetarium daily shows every hour from 11am-7pm (additional show at 9pm on Fri and Sat). Admission: €31 (includes admission to Museum of Science, Hemispheric Planetarium and Oceanographic Park).

The Institut Valencia d’Art Modern (IVAM) is an art institute with a collection of 20^th-century contemporary art and photography. Info: 118 Guillem de Castro. Tel. 963863000. www.ivam.es. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission: €2, free on Sun. The IVAM is also home to La Sucursal, one of the city’s best restaurants serving contemporary cuisine. Info: Tel. 963746655. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Expensive. 

The Museo de Bellas Arts features Spanish artists, including works by Goya and Velàzquez. Info: Calle San Pío. Tel. 963870300. www.cult.gva.es/mbav. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm. Admission: Free. 

Valencia’s Catedral is best known for its Capilla del Santo Cáliz (Chapel of the Holy Grail) that is home to what some believe is Christ’s cup at the Last Supper. The Cathedral is also home to one of St. Vincent’s arms (!) and a museum featuring Goya’s painting of St. Francis de Broja. Info: Plaza de la Reina. Tel. 963918127. Open daily 7:30am-1pm and 4pm-8:30pm. Admission: Free to cathedral. Museum: €2.

Travelers to Spain often return home with ceramics. At the Palacio de Marques de Dos Aguas you can see the grand ceramic collection housed in the Museo National de Ceramica. Info: 2 Poeta Querol. Tel. 963516392. Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm, Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Mon. Admission: €3. 

Dining in Valencia is a pleasant surprise. The city is famous for its rice dishes, especially paella. Contemporary chefs have taken this old favorite and created imaginative cuisine. At Civera (near the Bellas Artes Museum) you’ll dine on Spanish and Mediterranean food, with an emphasis on seafood. Excellent lobster dishes. Info: 11 Calle Lerida. Tel. 963475917. Closed Mon and Aug. Moderate-Expensive.

At El Timonel, the nautical décor is appropriate for this restaurant specializing in seafood (they also have good meat dishes). It’s located just a few blocks from Valencia’s Plaza de Toros, the largest bullring in Spain. Info: 13 Félix Pizcueta. Tel. 963526300. Closed Mon. Moderate-Expensive.

For cheaper dining, try Los Patos, serving specialty duck dishes to pizza in a 20^th-century townhouse in the central city. Good value. Info: 28 Calle del Mar. Tel. 963529323. Closed Mon. Moderate.  

While in Valencia, make sure you try the delicious horchata, a milky drink made with crushed tiger nuts. It’s served everywhere. And head to the Barrio del Carmen located around the Plaza del Carmen for a few cañas (glasses of beer) at any of the funky bars here in Valencia’s oldest neighborhood.

For more on Valencia, check out Open Road's Best of Spain. Delta Airlines now has four nonstop flights per week from New York's JFK Airport to Valencia.

Where did President Obama dine while in Paris?

On his recent trip to Paris, President Obama and the First Lady dined at a restaurant recommended in both Eating & Drinking in Paris and Open Road's Best of Paris. We just hope this doesn't raise the prices at this favorite. Here's information on La Fontaine de Mars:

Red-checked tablecloths, friendly service and reasonable prices near the Eiffel Tower. Try the poulet fermier aux morilles (free-range chicken with morel mushrooms). Info: 7th/Métro École-Militaire. 129 rue St-Dominique. Tel. 01/47.05.46.44. 

Shopping for antiques in Paris

Here are a few choices for shopping for antiques in Paris:

Le Louvre des Antiquaires
You’ll find 250 antique shops at the arcades along rue de Rivoli facing the Louvre. You can go inside and visit all of these shops (not just enter from rue de Rivoli). There are Art Deco objects, antiquities, furniture and art. Info: 2nd/Métro Palais Royal. Place du Palais-Royal. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. http://www.louvre-antiquaires.com/.

Village St-Paul

An attractive passageway with cobblestone courtyards and interesting shops, especially antique shops. Info: 4th/Métro St-Paul in the Marais. 23-27 rue St-Paul. Open Thu-Mon 11am-7pm.

Near the rue du Bac metro

You’ll find over 100 antique shops on rue du Bac, rue de Lille and rue de l’Université in the Carré Rive Gauche (between St-Germain-des-Prés and the Musée d’Orsay). Info: 7th/Metro rue du Bac.

Taken from Open Road's Best of Paris.